Baja Guide by Mike Godsey , Updated Oct. 8, 2009

The Daily Human wind forecast for the 2009/10 winter season will start around Nov. 25, 2009 and end Thursday Feb. 12, 2009.
Use the. Forecasts link to the left for forecasts and on-site reports this coming winter.

Evidence is accumulating that this will be an El Nino year. This will impact the Baja conditions this winter in many ways. In the next month or so I will detail what we can expect once the El Nino pattern is a sure thing. But, in short, the winds will be somewhat less reliable and the weather cooler and with fewer completely clear days.

Whether you are just dreaming about winter sailing or kiting, planning your first trip or preparing for your annual winter migration you will find the Baja Guide links to the left useful.

New Wind Diary report: These will start in late Oct. 2009 See link on left.

Newest Road Report: These will start in early Oct. 2009 See link on left.

A Baja trip is not just a vacation...it is an adventure. For kiters and sailors the reliable, steady winds combined with a fetch of hundreds of miles means huge rolling swell. On days when it does not blow the kayaking, dirt biking, mountain biking, fishing, hiking, ATVing are world class.

After over 39 trips ranging from San Carlos to Cabo Plumo and a total of over 4 years spent in Baja I still have lots to learn. Contact me at mike@iwindsurf.com for suggestions or additional information. Have fun exploring this guide and Baja! Text, photos & graphics by Mike Godsey

Look for updates for current road conditions using the road report link to the left. Last year was an extremely mild hurricane year and so far this year (as of Aug.29, 2009) has been mild so the roads are in superb condition. Use the other links to the left for useful Baja information.

If this is your first drive to Baja check out the Travelogue link and the Driving Baja links on the left

Below are some of the highlights of the upcoming winter season.

Baja California officials have announced the creation of a task force of bilingual police officers to serve Americans coming to Mexico.
Ensenada Secretary of Public Safety, Cesar Santieteban, says there will be agroup of officers to patrol a 50 mile toll road from Tijuana to Ensenada in Baja California.

See the Hurricane Diary link to the left for recent and past hurricane reports.)

If you have a new diesel truck be aware that Ultra Low Sulphur diesel fuel is not reliably available south of Tijuana. This may be a serious issue so check your owners manual. Some auto companies recommend using special fuel conditioners and changing your oil every 1000 miles so check with your local dealer.

Boat Permits are no longer required as of January 2008.

You can now purchase prepaid FMT's (Tourist cards) for $28 USD which will save you the hassle and time at the border. They are available from Vagabundos.com if you are buying Mexican auto insurance from them. You can get information on obtaining these documents at (800) 474-2252. These are current rates, which are subject to change without notice.

Border violence: 2009

Border violence involving north americans dramatically decreased in the Tijuana area in 2009. If you cross the border and take the direct route to the toll freeway to Ensenada you are very unlikely to have any problems. Coming back to the USA by way of Tijuana is more problematic since it is easy to miss the turn off to San Diego or it may be full forcing you to wander about the streets of Tijuana trying to find the Otay border crossing. I strong recommend you take leave Hwy. 1 just north of Ensenada and cross the border at Tecate. Yes, it is a longer drive but you will actually save time since you will have a much shorter wait at the border. The route is very scenic and you avoid the whole Tijuana scene.


Many of you are probably aware of the 2007 car-jackings and highway robberies of USA citizens near Tijuana. So far 2009 has not seen these type of events. Remember ALL of these events happened to people who drove through the TJ area in the dark early AM hours when the Tijuana streets are almost empty.

Violence in Baja continues in parts of border cities where drug cartels are having turf wars. Baja California Norte reported a 44% percent hike in homicides from November 2007 to April 2008. To put this in perspective the most recent statistics shows Mexico has a current rate of 1200 violent crimes per 100,000 residents. The USA as a whole has has a violent crime rate of 467 per 100,000 so overall Mexico is a more violent country. But violence in Mexico is like the USA in that certain cities and neighborhoods harbor most of the violent criminals.

To put this in perspective: Washington, D.C.'s 2007 violent crime rate was 1,413. This is even higher than Mexico yet no one is suggesting that people not visit the nations capital. Since most of you will be passing on the highway on the outskirts of Tijuana let's focus on that violence ridden city. In 2007 Tijuana's murder rate was 17.5 murders per 100,000 people. Pretty scary but Tijuana had a significantly lower lower murder rate than Las Vegas, Houston, Dallas while New Orleans had a murder rate 300% higher than Tijuana.

But the bottom line is that violence is scary especially when you are in a foreign country and don't speak the language. Personally you could not pay me to drive around the streets of Tijuana these days especially at night or very early morning. But then again I have same feelings about parts of Los Angeles. So follow the guide lines below and look at the map at the bottom of the page very carefully so you don't get an undesired tour to unsavory parts of Tijuana. I try to keep in a tight caravan and keep on the highway until south of Ensenada. This is the area where the vast majority of the violence has occurred.

Remember thousands of old folks in their late 60's and 70's drive down this road every year in monstrous RVs. If they can handle it so can you. Just use some common sense.

The key to safety is WHERE and WHEN you make your border crossing. Here is what can happen if you "just do it".

Tijuana report from my Baja neighbor Moni S. dated February 19 2008 at 2am in the morning. (Moni speaks pretty good spanish.)

Mike,

"From your tip about the bad road sign to the turn off for the San Diego border crossing in Tijuana near the border I was very careful and drove slowly. I even asked for some directions from the last toll both. They just said it was very easy and did not offer more than that. I caught all the road signs and made the right turns until I got to the last split in the road before US customs. I could not tell which way to go. I stopped and searched for a clue. Traffic was not bad there. That was my big mistake. I finally spotted a small sign about 3 foot off the ground sitting on the cement barrier. It was about 40% obscured. I crept close and saw that San Diego was to the right. I proceeded to the right , came around a curve and got in the line to enter the US.

Then two TJ police walked up to my car with flashlights and a military style machine gun. The looked like soldiers with full military gear except that it was all black. I rolled down the window and they said I stopped in traffic and that was dangerous. They told me to follow them to the police station to pay a fine of 100 (did not say pesos or dollars). I said ok. They opened a gate in the barrier next to their booth and directed me there. It was a tight squeeze but my car got through. I followed them and they led me to a dark area under a freeway overpass where no one else could see us. They told me to get out of the car and the officer with the gun directed me to the back of the car so the other one could search my car for “beer, or drugs or guns”. They spoke English. They put their hands in my pockets and emptied them. They took my wallet and emptied it on the hood of car and asked for registration which I gave them. At one point I though they were going to hand cuff me. They kept saying they were going to take me to the police station. I was scared but I remained as cooperative as possible. Maybe that was a mistake too.

While one officer kept me at the back of the car trying to distract me by saying I would go to jail for not having Mexican prescriptions for my pills. They were a type of Motrin which I explained can be purchased at any store no prescription needed. He was just trying to distract me from his partner that spend about 20 minutes searching my car until he found one of my stashes of cash. It was in a pill bottle Hidden behind a seat. They even searched my toiletry bag. They were persistent. I had money left over from paying the workers for the construction on our properties. He pocketed the $500 US as if I did not see him take it. I don’t know how much more they would have taken if had found more. They told me to take off. I looked for a badge number but could not see it. I saw their white pickup truck had the number 066 on the back. The cop with machine gun was about 5’6”tall a little stocky. The other one was taller, thinner and wore black rim glasses. I walked to the place where he took the money from to let them know that I know they took it. They got angry and yelled and started to come back from their car toward me. I told them I was closing up the car and putting things away so I could drive off safely. They backed off and I left. and made my way back to border.

I think having my red kayak on top was a red flag that attracted too much attention.

I tried to get the complaint form from the sindictatura but that link is no longer valid. I also tried to call without success. They said it was the wrong number."

These are scary reports but keep in mind that far worse things happen every day in american big cities. Thousands of people travel Mex. Hwy. 1 in Baja every day and reports of major trouble are still very rare.

The real Mexican police are increasing patrols from the border on Mexico Highway 1 leading to the Ensenada toll road.

2009 Season UPDATES:
There are still problems with ATM machines in Baja in recent months. One problem is ATM fraud. If you use your ATM to obtain cash while you down in Baja for a long trip you run the risk of your USA bank closing your account. Bankers I have talked to suggested you call the 800 number on the back of your card and notify them that you will be making cash withdrawls in Baja during a certain time period.

In recent years there have been kidnappings at ATM machines where a person is forced to use their ATM card and number with draw cash over a period of days. The following is the current advisory from the U. S. government:

"U.S. citizens should be very cautious in general when using ATMs in Mexico. If an ATM must be used, it should be accessed only during the business day at large protected facilities (preferably inside commercial establishments, rather than at glass-enclosed, highly visible ATMs on streets). U.S. and Mexican citizens are sometimes accosted on the street and forced to withdraw money from their accounts using their ATM cards."

There is now a serious speed trap and a bunch of topes (speed bumps) in El Rosario and they are quick to issue tickets for speeding or passing slow moving trucks.

* If you feel you have been treated unfairly by a police officer get his badge number and license plate number and tell him you will be contacting the Sindicatura (seen-dee-kah-too-ra). In most cases if you are clearly in the right this will send the cop on his way. The Sindicatura investigate corrupt police officers.

If you have a complaint against a police officer or other city official, you can contact the City of Tijuana Internal Affairs at 688-2810, 24 hours a day. You can also register your complaint, in person at City Hall, or via the Internet at the following address: http://www.sindicatura.gob.mx/
complaints/index.asp

New off-ramp at the Tijuana border.

For years Baja first timers and distracted old timers have missed the poorly marked right turn off just past the border crossing that took you to the Ensenada toll road. And once you missed that turn off you were dumped into the traffic mess of downtown Tijuana. Given the current high levels of drug related violence in Tijuana you really don't want to wander around town.

The easiest way to deal with getting a tourist card and the bank fee is to do it at this border. Then merge on to the highway keeping in the right lane. Take the first major off ramp on the right with the sign saying "Tijuana Beaches and Toll Road".

highlights of the 2007/8 winter season.

We are finally out of the El Nino/La Nina pattern for the 2008/2009 season. Last season, 2007/8 was a mild La Nina winter with the storm track more northerly than typical. So the wind on the popular East Cape sailing sites was unreliable at times but much better than the proceeding season which saw a El Nino. Typically a El Nino then La Nina sequence is followed by several normal years. This mean more days with steadier wind and larger swell since the more of the Sea of Cortez will be blowing.

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF STATE: Aug. 20, 2009 Travel Alert

August 20, 2009

The Department of State has issued this Travel Alert to update security information for U.S. citizens traveling to and living in Mexico. The following are excerpts from this alert:

While millions of U.S. citizens safely visit Mexico each year (including tens of thousands who cross the land border every day for study, tourism or business), violence in the country has increased. It is imperative that travelers understand the risks of travel to Mexico, how best to avoid dangerous situations, and who to contact if one becomes a crime victim. Common-sense precautions such as visiting only legitimate business and tourist areas during daylight hours, and avoiding areas where prostitution and drug dealing might occur, can help ensure that travel to Mexico is safe and enjoyable.
A number of areas along the border are experiencing rapid growth in the rates of many types of crime. Robberies, homicides, petty thefts, and carjackings have all increased over the last year across Mexico generally, with notable spikes in Tijuana and northern Baja California.

U.S. citizens should make every attempt to travel on main roads during daylight hours, particularly the toll ("cuota") roads, which generally are more secure.

U.S. citizen visitors are encouraged to stay in the well-known tourist areas. Travelers should leave their itinerary with a friend or family member not traveling with them, avoid traveling alone, and check with their cellular provider prior to departure to confirm that their cell phone is capable of roaming on GSM or 3G international networks. Do not display expensive-looking jewelry, large amounts of money, or other valuable items.

USA Consulates:

Tijuana: Tapachula 96, telephone (52)(664) 622-7400. http://tijuana.usconsulate.gov/service.html

Cabo San Lucas: Blvd. Marina local c-4, Plaza Nautica, col. Centro, telephone (52)(624) 143-3566.

In case of an after-hours emergency involving U.S. citizens, please contact the Duty Officer. From Mexico dial 001 (619) 692-2154, from the U.S., call (619) 692-2154.

If you get lost near border.

If you miss the exit to the road heading to the toll road this map may help you. Note that it does not show the new exit at the border.

Climate report for the 2007/08 season

The 2007/08 season was a moderate La Nina pattern after last winters mild El Nino. The 2006/07 El Nino gave Baja lots of cool cloudy weather with many light wind days. With a La Nina this winter the pattern will be much more variable with periods of better average wind interspersed with some cloud windless periods. Overall it will be a much better season than the 2006/07. Basically the Gorge and the Pacific Northwest will be much wetter with with the average storm track more northward than last year. Generally this means more blue sky in Baja and more time between storms for the 4 corners high to develop. This translates into more days with stronger El Norte winds interspersed with long calm periods. During La Nina conditions the North Pacific High and it's NW winds are much further north than typical so we should not see last year's gusty shifty winds as NW and NNE winds mixed over the East Cape. At this time the odds of a strong La Nina pattern are estimated at about 80% but by the same token it means a wind limiting El Nino is not very likely.

FM3 changes. Report by Dan & Michelle.

Today, we went into La Paz Immigration to get our FM3 stamped (we were not able to have it stamped in G.Negro they told us to get it stamped in La Paz since they were not able to stamp it). We were told by Immigration in La Paz, that there is a new policy and they do not stamp FM3 immediately - the new process is similar to a normal tourist visa that happens when flying. it requires you to fill out a tourist visa form and you also need a receipt from the day you entered the country (i.e. gas receipt, hotel) or, you need to fill out another form giving your word that you entered the country on this date. Immigration then submits these forms along with your FM3 and a copy of our U.S. Passport for processing. This procedure takes about a week. We were told by the immigration people that this process gives tighter control and allows them to add up the annual time spent in Mexico for recording purposes. This information is then used for processing the FM2 status and ultimately the permanent residence status. We talked to Yolanda and she said that in january tighter FM2 regulations were enforced which state that all FM2 residence must reside in Mexico for at least 9 months per year. Wow! This was a surprise to us.