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Fin fairing compound
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MalibuGuru



Joined: 11 Nov 1993
Posts: 8812

PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2021 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JB weld or solar rez. Be patient and let them set up for 24 hours. When sanding don't let the repair get too hot, or it'll fail
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isobars



Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 20319

PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2021 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I gotta ask ... How often do you spin out when really driving upwind or deep off the wind?

wndsrfrmn wrote:
I always grab a rock off the beach. A course rock will even out the big dings then grab a tumbled river rock to smooth things out.
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thombiz



Joined: 25 Jun 2007
Posts: 797
Location: Corpus Christi

PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2021 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For Carbon fins I use carbon fiber dust and West System Epoxy. I make my own carbon fiber dust by grinding pieces of carbon fiber left over from damaged carbon windsurf items, like old broken masts, broken boom arms, etc. I have a bunch of old broken windsurfing parts to choose from. I use my air grinder with a 60 to 80 grit disk to grind on the carbon fiber item. I do this over a plastic tub to collect the carbon fiber dust. Once I have what I think is enough carbon dust, I mix the West System epoxy, then mix in some of the dust until the epoxy has a consistency of very runny peanut butter. This consistency will allow air bubbles to escape. On the fin, I roughen the surface of the ding so the epoxy will have something for the epoxy to cling to, then mask the area of the ding with cellophane masking tape. Cellophane will conform to the shape of the fin surface. I put the Cellophane of both sides of the fin, leaving a small slit at the edge of the fin to allow for filling the void with the epoxy mix. Once the epoxy hardens, remove the cellophane tape. It will leave a sticky glue residue on the fin. Use lacquer thinner to remove the residue, then wet sand and polish as needed. The epoxy repair should be very close to the shape of the fin edge before the ding, so wet sanding should be easy.

Last edited by thombiz on Sun Sep 12, 2021 10:08 am; edited 1 time in total
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dllee



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 5100
Location: East Bay

PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2021 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow.
In 38 years of shortboard windsurfing, I have never even thought about filling scratches in any of my 100+ fins I've used.
None spin out after deep gouges, so I keep using them.
Currently, my foils all have deep gouges, the masts have deep impact smashing......and never make any noises.
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JamesHardy



Joined: 29 Mar 2002
Posts: 154

PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2021 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dllee wrote:
Wow.
In 38 years of shortboard windsurfing, I have never even thought about filling scratches in any of my 100+ fins I've used.
None spin out after deep gouges, so I keep using them.
Currently, my foils all have deep gouges, the masts have deep impact smashing......and never make any noises.


And I'm sure that's because you are the coolest person you know!!
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dllee



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 5100
Location: East Bay

PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2021 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or.....someone is an.l......
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thombiz



Joined: 25 Jun 2007
Posts: 797
Location: Corpus Christi

PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2021 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't fill dings in fins very often, and when I do, it is usually to save rare Curtis Weed fins. We have a lot of seagrass here in Corpus Christi, especially in the summer, and the best fins I've found to deal with our weeds is the Curtis Weed Fin with a 40 degree rake. Curtis fins haven't been made for over 12 years, so when I find a used one for sale, I buy it, fix it's dings then sell it to a local who is glad to have it. Fins with big dings don't sell well, so I have to make them right to get the sales. It's a lot of work to make about $30 per fin.
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dvCali



Joined: 23 Aug 2007
Posts: 1273

PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2021 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thombiz wrote:
For Carbon fins I use carbon fiber dust and West System Epoxy. ... On the fin, I roughen the surface of the ding so the epoxy will have something for the epoxy to cling to, then mask the area of the ding with cellophane masking tape. Cellophane will conform to the shape of the fin surface. I put the Cellophane of both sides of the fin, leaving a small slit at the edge of the fin to allow for filling the void with the epoxy mix. ...


Thank you! I never thought about using cellophane masking tape and always had trouble with the epoxy+micro-ballons running or getting off the ding.

As far as the need to fix the dings ... most might not be such a great deal, but I recently dinged a beloved tectonics phoenix and sure enough the fin that never spin out did it twice in one session. Nothing that some careful sanding did not fix but if i were to do it again I would go the route you describe.
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gerritt



Joined: 06 May 1998
Posts: 619
Location: Redwood City, CA

PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2021 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simpler way is to use Solarez and packing tape. Prep the fin by getting rid of any broken cling-ons then rough it with sandpaper for adhesion. Place packing tape on one side of the leading edge of the fin under damage. Set fin on newspaper with tape down. Fill in ding with Solarez while in the shade. Wrap tape around the edge carefully, leaving a little excess, but not too much as you will have to sand it off to match later. Move into sun and let cure. Remove tape and sand area to match. Can be done in a half hour.
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