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Starboard's wave boards too darn heavy!
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dllee



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 5329
Location: East Bay

PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Poly was great for the careless beginners, that,s all.
Sun ate them up in a couple years.
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GURGLETROUSERS



Joined: 30 Dec 2009
Posts: 2643

PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a note on poly boards, to jog the memory of those who used them. Sad Tiga made wave boards, B@J boards, slalom boards, and a proper (at that time) long racing board, from the 80's through to the 90's. (All poly.)

The fastest boards they made were the dedicated slalom boards (The DSB craze.) One of those Tiga boards would be the only candidate fast enough to match the composite DSB boards. A friend sailed one, and it could turn in quite a performance, but was hopeless at any kind of gybe. The DSB craze was even criticised by the magazines .

In the 870's and 90's I was racing longboards. On the strength of Boards mag testing four racing boards I bought the Surf Partner Air. No actual speeds were given but the testers evaluation was that it was a good fast shape, with excellent pointing (upwind) ability. Knowing what we know now about testing (having to tread carefully to appease advertising revenue) I should have taken note of their final summary which was - we coukdn't help but wonder how such a good shape would fare in composite structure. (Trans lation- why the hell did they ruin it by making it in poly!)

That, in fact, proved to be the case in racing. fast on the plane, but way behind the others in light winds. I quickly updated to a proper racing board!
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manuel



Joined: 08 Oct 2007
Posts: 1158

PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flipped the board on its tummy. Water leaking from right rear front strap insert. Cannot see anything there. Appears to come from in-between holes in the tab where the starboard anti twist washer goes.

This means that there's water from front strap to tail, sucks big time. I guess I can try drying it out, waterproof the area and continue sailing until something else happens?

Only 1 year ½ of use... Barely any use before my ownership but at least purchased at a good price.

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manuel



Joined: 08 Oct 2007
Posts: 1158

PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seriously, seriously???? ...so now what?


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isobars



Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 20935

PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was that test that prompted WSMag to stop measuring or publishing stiffness in their board tests. Their head to head tests proved it doesn't affect top speed.
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rigitrite



Joined: 19 Sep 2007
Posts: 520
Location: Kansas City

PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The water can be removed, but it's not easy. Essentially, your goal is to vaporize the water and remove it. The most effective way to do this is with a vacuum bag and vacuum pump. You bag the board, rig up the vacuum pump, and place the entire assembly in the sun on a hot day, this will cause the water to vaporize at a much lower temperature than 100 C. The pump will continually pull the vapor out of the board and discharge it to atmosphere. You'll probably have to drill some holes (to be refilled later) to aid this process. The other option is to buy a new board.
You should accurately weigh the board and compare to mfg listed weight to get an idea of how much water is in there. (8.34 lb / gallon)
There is also this idea of putting your board on a spinner and using angular momentum to force the water out of holes on each end. This is of limited effectiveness.
Good luck.

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manuel



Joined: 08 Oct 2007
Posts: 1158

PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the second day drying outside and it's been slowly dripping. The dripping is good when the sun is out and then at night the board cools off and it stops. Vacuuming would be good. I was suggested to use trash bags too.

I have the vent opened, a hole at the bottom and the pin hole on the insert. Having the board on its tummy lets the water run down the pin hole, having it up the tail hole and upside-down evaporate through the tail hole.

Unsure of which strategy to use, I've been avoiding front exposure to limit damage on the board paint and pads. So I'm exposing the bottom near noon and the upside later in the afternoon.

The plan is to dry it out really well then plug and play until I hear a crack.
How should I go about plugging the hole? Gorilla glue plus some sort of platic pin?

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jingebritsen



Joined: 21 Aug 2002
Posts: 3371

PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2019 5:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

boardlady.com covers all this.

eva has a doctorate in board repair

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jingebritsen



Joined: 21 Aug 2002
Posts: 3371

PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2019 6:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

table of contents

https://boardlady.com/repairmenu.htm

cheers

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manuel



Joined: 08 Oct 2007
Posts: 1158

PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2019 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice website for sure, need more of those!

If I set it up straight water drips out of the bottom while when setting on its belly water drips out of insert. I prefer the water coming out of the insert for now.

Since the back of the board is white, I taped a large black plastic bag over it.
Right now I'm getting about 1 drop of water every 17 seconds.

One drop = 0.05 mL
17 drops per seconds = 212 drops per hour
212 x 6h (of operating sun let's estimate)
1,270 per day = 63.5 mL
1,000 mL / 63.5 = 16 days

So before Christmas I should reach the weight of a Tabou board, great!

EDIT: The first day I had about 2 table spoons out I thought roughly, 1 table spoon = 300 drops by the way.

Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy !!!!

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