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Does epoxy + filler need to be covered?

 
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boardsurfr



Joined: 23 Aug 2001
Posts: 1210

PostPosted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 3:48 pm    Post subject: Does epoxy + filler need to be covered? Reply with quote

A repair question: can I use epoxy with fairing filler as the top layer of a repair, or does it need to be covered? I'm mainly concerned about the repair being 100% water tight, not so much about possible UV damage. The filler sits on top of a carbon + (mostly sacrificial) glass repair that has been sanded.

In the past, I have usually added another coat of clear epoxy on top, sanded that lightly, and painted the whole thing. But this is a repair of a "throw away" board that I want to try for foiling. The repair was a large scale bottom delam repair using the "cut open and glue back on" approach. Not sure how long the repair will be good for, or if I'll even use the board for more than a couple of sessions.

I'm familiar with the Board Lady site, no need to post links.
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dllee



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 4594
Location: East Bay

PostPosted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gotta seal it and then paint it.
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JamesHardy



Joined: 29 Mar 2002
Posts: 131

PostPosted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't worry about it, it should be alright for a few sessions or even a season or two. The glue down de-lam repair will fail before the repair takes on any measurable water. It's an experiment, ride the it like it's stolen!
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boardsurfr



Joined: 23 Aug 2001
Posts: 1210

PostPosted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JamesHardy wrote:
Don't worry about it, it should be alright for a few sessions or even a season or two. The glue down de-lam repair will fail before the repair takes on any measurable water. It's an experiment, ride the it like it's stolen!

Thanks for the advice. I'm not sure about the delam repair failing, though. I did one delam repair at the top, where the delamination was caused by plenty of use - the EPS foam was crushed. Tried to limit the repair to the soft area, with some foam injection around it. After 10 or 20 sessions, the section a bit behind the repair also delaminated. No big surprise in hindsight, but that also was more a learning experience (I had replaced the board already with exactly the same board).

The bottom delam on the slalom board is different. The sandwich cleanly separated from the foam, with very little epoxy in the affected area. But the EPS still looked and felt like new. I use vacuum for the repair so it settled down nicely, then glassed the cuts. The biggest potential issue is that I underestimated the amount of epoxy I needed, and ran out. But the vacuum pulled out some epoxy around most of the repair area, so it probably was enough.

I'm planning to use the board for foiling, so there should not be much additional stress on the lower side where the repair is. I've tried a 66 cm freestyle board (also a zombie with delam issues), which was easy to get flying, but a bit hard to control, and a Bic Nova 170 which was easier to control when flying, but harder to get going (and to slog upwind). The 71 cm slalom board I'm repairing might be just right, with a bit more width than the FS board and a few extra liters. No more tail (!) sinking in slow tacks due to the weight of the foil + power plate (or so I hope).
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boardsurfr



Joined: 23 Aug 2001
Posts: 1210

PostPosted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just heard back from a friend in Oz who has been building and repairing surfboards and windsurf boards for a few decades - here's what he said:
Quote:
My repairs and indeed new boards always finish with a coat of bog, (epoxy + Q-cell). But as Q-cell is hollow beads, it needs a coat of spray putty over the top before painting. In your case leaving it with just a sanded finish will be fine. Might slow it down a tad but if you're foiling that shouldn't matter.

Sharing it in case anyone else was wondering. I'm using West Systems 407 low-density filler which is microballoon-based - probably very similar to Q-cells, or even exactly the same.
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 5065
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2019 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the cost of a can at Wally World for a can of prime, comes in black, grey or white. 2coats lightly sand.
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