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Fixing ASA skin peel

 
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windswell



Joined: 20 May 2010
Posts: 199

PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2018 2:25 pm    Post subject: Fixing ASA skin peel Reply with quote

I got this decades old Screamer 2 for a friend's 15 year old daughter who is ready for a smaller board. She's in the footstraps and jibing a 130L. board and making many waterstarts.
Any suggestions about how to glue down the ASA peeling skin on the rail and how to recoat the nose with something that will bond in a waterproof way to the ASA. This board sat in the sun for years but doesn't have much use. The factory non-skid is still perfect. I'm thinking the sun beat up the ASA so much that
a marine quality 2 part epoxy might work or something like marine tex?
This will probably be a temporary transition board for her, so we don't want to spend too much time on it.
[img]https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPu6hHcUrRfjtUUHXQxi9Tw8Xd9UKcOmG-Hohol [/img] [img]https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMooIPGuJ5aX2b08b0LxP9Gv4BLHU7iHaYJGsMm[/img][/img]

Ooops, obviously I'm not inserting the photo links correctly. But you can copy and post them into a browser to see what I'm talking about. Thank.
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swchandler



Joined: 08 Nov 1993
Posts: 9149

PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2018 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unfortunately, you've got to sign into Google to see the photos. I'm not going to do that, but if you've got any exposure of the board's foam interior, an epoxy repair must be done. To get the epoxy to properly bond to the board, you must completely sand away the ASA in the vicinity of the damage. Once you've revealed the epoxy/fiberglass structure under the ASA, I would recommend using a 5 to 1 two part epoxy like West System, to include fiberglass cloth to provide a structure to the repair. Not seeing the extent of damage, it's difficult to say whether you need to fill any cavities with a thickened epoxy prior to laminations. If you can post the photos as an attachment to your post, I think that more information on extent of the repair(s) could be offered.
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joethewindsufa



Joined: 10 Oct 2010
Posts: 1019
Location: Montréal

PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 5:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

even when signed on google
i do NOT see the pics
they need to be shared
NOT sure how to share them with everyone
know how in hotmail, but not google photos Embarassed
send them to me and i can put them on my blog
http://joewindsurfer.com
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 4848
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 7:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The West System 105 , or this one.

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=115873&engine=adwords&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2f7bBRDVARIsAAwYBBsGMdAjRRMSt0EjQxUmT2QhfLK7b6vYeFayZW2wO19fJX-v-2Yog5EaAh3xEALw_wcB

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K4 fins
4Boards....May the fours be with you

http://www.k4fins.com/fins.html
http://4boards.co.uk/
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windswell



Joined: 20 May 2010
Posts: 199

PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 9:49 am    Post subject: ASA skin peel images Reply with quote

FIgured it out. Thanks for your replies. There does not appear to be any exposed foam core, just the brown fiber glass cloth.
Can I just glue/epoxy down the lifting rail area where I inserted 2 yellow postit notes. It's about 5 inches long and extends about 3/4 inch toward the fin.



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swchandler



Joined: 08 Nov 1993
Posts: 9149

PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have to admit that I've never patched an ASA board, but from what I've heard the ASA needs to be sanded away to get a good dependable bond, at least with more traditional 5 to 1 epoxy. If you want to bond the lifted areas where you have the Post It notes inserted, U2 may be on the right track with West System G/Flex 650 epoxy. I've never used it, but it they say that it's good for bonding hard to bond materials like plastics.

As far as the nose damage, you can sand away any loose lifted ASA material and just paint over the original exposed epoxy/fiberglass area without using any additional epoxy or fiberglass. However, just to be sure that there are no pinholes or ways for water to enter, I would recommend applying 3M brand White Glazing marine putty. It is a non-catalytic thinly applied waterproof compound that drys very quickly and it sands and fairs out beautifully. After application, sanding and fairing, just paint over the repaired area.
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dllee



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 3974
Location: East Bay

PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just pry the delam up, inject Gorilla glue, and weight the area for 3 hours.
I worked at a Mistral, F2, and Bic dealership for 18 years. Done dozens of similar repairs.
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ctuna



Joined: 27 Jun 1995
Posts: 816
Location: Santa Cruz Ca

PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

See

https://boardlady.com/

Marine tex is good for small dings/leaks on ASA but this
isn't one of those.
These need to be glassed.
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cgoudie1



Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Posts: 2160
Location: Killer Sturgeon Cove

PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2018 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think if the underneath epoxy structure isn't damaged (and it doesn't look
like it is) I'd go with dlee's fix. That board isn't worth a lot of your time,
and you'll be wanting the rider to get on the water as quickly as possible.
That fix is quick and pretty easy. You do need to make sure you get the
delam squeezed down to the board somehow, either with weight or a very
very careful clamping (so as not to damage the underneath structure). The
Gorilla glue needs to squeeze out a little bit from the seam/break. Let it dry and go.

.02

-Craig

dllee wrote:
Just pry the delam up, inject Gorilla glue, and weight the area for 3 hours.
I worked at a Mistral, F2, and Bic dealership for 18 years. Done dozens of similar repairs.
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windward1



Joined: 18 Jun 2000
Posts: 1075

PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2018 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A 20# bag of bird seed makes a good weight. Automatically conforms to the shape of the board.
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