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d0uglass
Joined: 28 May 2004 Posts: 1286 Location: Bonita Springs, Florida
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Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 10:53 am Post subject: Replacing Mistral Equipe XR daggerboard gasket |
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Hi y'all,
I'm sure this has been asked 10,000 times before, but what's the most straightforward way to buy or build a replacement daggerboard gasket for a Mistral Equipe XR 372? The old one had completely rotted off, so I scraped away the residue to start with a clean slate. Looks like it would be an easy job if I could just find a strip of the right kind of rubber and a tube of the right kind of glue.
-James |
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greyghost
Joined: 06 Oct 2015 Posts: 151
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d0uglass
Joined: 28 May 2004 Posts: 1286 Location: Bonita Springs, Florida
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Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 11:11 am Post subject: |
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Cool. $50 isn't too bad. Looks like I'll have to cut the gasket a little shorter, per Tinho's instructions, since I think my 372 is one of the earlier Equipes. |
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greyghost
Joined: 06 Oct 2015 Posts: 151
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Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 11:22 am Post subject: |
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just a forewarning that the gasket it very stiff.
I've only sailed my Equipe twice since I bought it a couple months ago (been on the my other two mainly) but I lubed up the daggerboard with either a silicone lubricant or WD 40 and it was fine on the water. Benefit is that it makes a good seal, no water flying up when under power. |
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thombiz
Joined: 25 Jun 2007 Posts: 799 Location: Corpus Christi
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Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 11:47 am Post subject: |
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Also, it seems to help the adhesive bond to the gasket better if you roughen up the gasket with sand paper prior to applying the adhesive. The urethane gasket isn't easy to sand so it'll be tough to get it roughened up. The gasket is too stiff in my opinion, so I increased flex by cutting a kerf cuts about half way thru the gasket thickness. I used a table saw to make them and they are located 5/16" either side of the center slit and running end to end. I clamped a piece of wood to my rip fence which just barely let the gasket slide under it and over the saw blade. This kept the depth of the cut constant, end to end. I started by just barely cutting it on the first pass, then carefully making the cut deeper until it looked correct. Worked great.
The cuts should me made on the adhesive side. |
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RaceboardDude
Joined: 08 Dec 2010 Posts: 86
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Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 5:53 pm Post subject: |
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DELETE
Last edited by RaceboardDude on Mon Apr 16, 2012 10:55 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Ugly_Bird
Joined: 04 Nov 2008 Posts: 335
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Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 7:19 am Post subject: |
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RaceboardDude wrote: |
Wind Power also has a softer .062" and stiffer .080" version.
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Just a thought. Would the thickness of the gasket be also defined by the depth of the goove? Idealy, when the gasket is in the groove there should be no step formed to have the surface smooth. |
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RaceboardDude
Joined: 08 Dec 2010 Posts: 86
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Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 1:18 pm Post subject: |
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DELETE
Last edited by RaceboardDude on Mon Apr 16, 2012 10:55 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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GDK-CAN196
Joined: 27 Apr 2011 Posts: 2
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Posted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 10:41 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks to all for the excellent advice - I'm about to start replacement on my Superlight 2 with a WindPower gasket and BSI extra-thick CA.
Given the stiffness of the gasket, I'm amazed the CA glue can take the peeling stress of bending the gasket 90-degrees.
Along with sanding the adhesive side of the new gasket, WindPower recommended cleaning the gasket with Ajax or similar abrasive/chlorine cleaner to remove all traces of mold release or other grease or lubricants.
Anyone else have cleaning suggestions or tried a different solvent - maybe acetone ? |
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RaceboardDude
Joined: 08 Dec 2010 Posts: 86
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Posted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 10:50 pm Post subject: |
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DELETE
Last edited by RaceboardDude on Mon Apr 16, 2012 10:56 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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