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thombiz



Joined: 25 Jun 2007
Posts: 664
Location: Corpus Christi

PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 12:49 pm    Post subject: Non-Skid Reply with quote

I get asked several times a year about non-skid and how I do mine, so I am sharing that info because there are fewer and fewer shops doing board work, and this may help someone willing to take on the task. Enjoy:

I make my non-skid by using "Fine" acrylic dust purchased from Fiberglass Hawaii in Ventura and non-yellowing urethane paint purchased off Ebay.

Here is the hookup for the Fine acrylic dust. 1 lb. should be enough for several boards.

https://shop.fiberglasshawaii.com/shop/resin-fillers-gel-coat/fillers/flns4060flb-lb-non-skid-4060-fine


Here is the hookup for the clear urethane "matte" finish. This is a premium quality non-yellowing clear urethane:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quart-Low-Gloss-Flat-Matte-Semi-Gloss-Satin-Urethane-Clear-Clearcoat-Paint-Kit-/282497036909?var=581652367793&hash=item41c622b26d:m:mNNhpnil97m5uKWCEcGuyVA

Be sure to select the "matte" finish.


I sand the area to receive the non-skid with 220 or finer sandpaper, then mask the edges and deck pads. I use a cheap 4" or so foam roller (about 1" in diameter) to spread the urethane. Be sure to mix the urethane in precise proportions indicated on the can instructions. I get the foam rollers at Ace Hardware. I apply the first coat in a medium thickness, starting on one end and working to the other end. I immediately go back and apply a second medium coat. Then immediately go back and quickly apply a third "THIN" coat. Total application time of all 3 coats of clear urethane should be less than 10 minutes. As soon as an area gets the 3rd coat, I have a helper start sprinkling the acrylic dust with a salt shaker. The objective in applying the acrylic dust is to get the dust on the wet paint before the outermost surface starts to harden or dry. First pass with the dust, try to generally get the whole area covered then come back and apply a second coat to eliminate any shiny or blotchy areas where the first application may have not been even. Then repeat for the third coat to fill in any uneven areas. Total application time of the dust should be less than 8 minutes. Once you start sprinkling the acrylic dust, DO NOT go back over the acrylic dust with the foam roller!


Most people prefer the "Fine" dust as it is pretty close to the original OEM non-skid. It is a bit more aggressive than OEM non-skid. If you prefer a lot of grip go to the "medium" dust. The "medium" is pretty rough and can give you "road rash" if you fall on it.

Your mileage may vary.
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zirtaeb



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 3562

PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I"m too lazy and cheap to do it right, but most of my boards are well over 15 year's old, so need nonskid.
Wax works really well. I used to surf.
Grip tape from the hardware store also.
Or I sand some dust from a piece of lexan, then spray poly resin onto the board, sprinkle some lexan dust, and spray a bit more poly resin atop the dust.
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nw30



Joined: 21 Dec 2008
Posts: 4057
Location: The eye of the universe, Cen. Cal. coast

PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm lazy also, you can just buy a spray can of non-slip paint. There are many products on the market now days, like AquaTrac, Super Grip, and Monster Paint.


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I don't drink the 'cool' aid, I drink tequila, it's more honest.
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joethewindsufa



Joined: 10 Oct 2010
Posts: 856
Location: Montréal

PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

for the other lazy ones - like me Embarassed
.
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Jim.od3



Joined: 25 Aug 2012
Posts: 73

PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Re-Dek works great.
The spray can stuff is not rough enough for my taste. Not very effective as non-skid for a windsurfer IMHO. Plus the nozzle on mine got plugged after one use.
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swchandler



Joined: 08 Nov 1993
Posts: 8357

PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 12:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Bob for offering the real deal. I appreciate your expertise, but I wonder whether others here see the light.
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gregnw44



Joined: 23 Jul 2008
Posts: 584

PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 1:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes I agree, thanks Bob for sharing the best and proper way to it "right".

But I'm also lazy and I agree with NW 30... Monster Traction Spray is awesome!! It's the easiest. And it works great. You can add more coats to get it as "rough, grippy and sand-like" as you want. And it has lasted much longer then I thought it would.
I guess it's not for everyone (although I can't imagine why) but it does the trick really well.

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Greg
Seattle, WA
Longboarding since '81
Shortboarding since '84
Sailing long and short boards, every year since then.
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rollerrider



Joined: 17 May 2003
Posts: 97

PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 8:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Re-deck works fine for me. Enough for two boards. But follow directions! And I think there is a good you tube video.
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cgoudie1



Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Posts: 1990
Location: Killer Sturgeon Cove

PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do it Thom's way, although I might spray in the urethane.

-Craig


Last edited by cgoudie1 on Fri Jun 09, 2017 12:12 pm; edited 1 time in total
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bluefish1



Joined: 24 Dec 2013
Posts: 906

PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you help me understand the "glue" options? Bob recommends polyurethane. Eva talks about epoxy being better than acrylic clear paint but doesn't mention polyurethane. If I use epoxy with the acrylic dust there are many types, water based, solvent, high solid, low solid, etc. So many darn products. The redeck was useless for me, so I assume spray on products are as well. I like grit as I always wear booties.
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