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ramps
Joined: 07 May 2000 Posts: 94
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J64TWB
Joined: 24 Dec 2013 Posts: 1685
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Posted: Tue Jun 06, 2017 5:59 pm Post subject: |
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What I don't understand about free solo is that I assume it's a one way ticket up. What happens if they reach a point where they can no longer go up? |
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swchandler
Joined: 08 Nov 1993 Posts: 10588
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Posted: Tue Jun 06, 2017 6:28 pm Post subject: |
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"What happens if they reach a point where they can no longer go up?"
Then it's time to go down. Alex Honnold can take another route down, because I'm sure that going down the same way he came up must be quite impossible. Yet, with those guys going up those antennas have only one way down, sans a helicopter. It's got to be a bit unnerving in its execution. Going down is less about seeing and more about guessing and feeling.
Regarding helicopter assists, one time while I was sailing in the Delta at The Access, helicopters were ferrying individual workers back and forth to and from the top of the nearby elevated powerline structures. No doubt, a bit unsettling, especially with the wind being a possible factor in the landings and takeoffs.
As an addendum, I failed to mention that the workers being transported were dangling off of long lines. It was a bit odd seeing them dangling by a line off of a helicopter. One can only imagine what the whole harness thing was about, and hooking in and out.
Last edited by swchandler on Wed Jun 07, 2017 9:10 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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scottwerden
Joined: 11 Jul 1999 Posts: 302
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Posted: Tue Jun 06, 2017 6:28 pm Post subject: |
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bluefish1 wrote: | What I don't understand about free solo is that I assume it's a one way ticket up. What happens if they reach a point where they can no longer go up? |
Then he has to down climb the route, or at least down climb to a point where he can bail out in some other way, like rappeling. Apparently that happened earlier on the El Cap route Alex just solo'ed - het got pretty high on the route a couple months ago, and decided it didn't feel right (whatever that means) and he bailed out.
These extreme routes that Alex solos are not being done at first sight by Alex. He typically climbs the route a few times with a rope to make sure he can do it. On the El Cap route he left chalk smears at key hand holds when he rope-climbed it so he that when he soloed the route he uses those marks to figure out the 'secret' to very hard sequence of moves.
The El Cap route, and many of his other really extreme solos, were all filmed so there was a crew of people close to him, hanging off the face with ropes, filming him. When Alex backs down, he only has to get down enough on his own to get to his crew, and use their gear to rappel off. His accomplishment is still crazy ballsy, even though he is not really all alone on the rock face. |
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J64TWB
Joined: 24 Dec 2013 Posts: 1685
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Posted: Tue Jun 06, 2017 6:31 pm Post subject: |
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I think this is the single greatest athletic accomplishment in human history. |
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swchandler
Joined: 08 Nov 1993 Posts: 10588
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Posted: Tue Jun 06, 2017 6:57 pm Post subject: |
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I guess I got somewhat off-track in my last post, yet I got to thinking about the challenge going down free solo instead of going up. I don't know if that fits into the rock climbing world today, but one has to wonder whether Honnold would ever consider free soloing down El Capitan from the summit. Its got to be a wholely different mindset to pull something like that off. Probably a death wish. |
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windoggi
Joined: 22 Feb 2002 Posts: 2743
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Posted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 2:34 pm Post subject: |
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On nearly every rock climb, down climbing is not an option. Especially climbs of this difficulty. Reversing moves is always much harder than going up. Being rescued on El Cap is a very complex process...not really an option in his case. His real risk is blowing a move, breaking a hold, or something as odd as a bat flying out of a crack into your face. (This happened to me once and I nearly peeled) Freezing up out of fear is not one of his problems it seems. As bluefish said, this is the greatest athletic feat ever performed. If you haven't climbed before, its amazing. If you know the game, its supernatural. _________________ /w\ |
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scottwerden
Joined: 11 Jul 1999 Posts: 302
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Posted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 5:49 pm Post subject: |
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The climbs that elevated Alex Honnold to superhuman status (Astroman, Moonlight Buttress, the Rostrum) were all in the 5.11 - 5.12 range of difficulty. Freerider, on El Cap was 5.13a so not only was it longer (30 pitches) it was a lot harder. Apparently he woke up some climbers who were on the route, sleeping on a ledge when he climbed past them. He left them totally flabbergasted as he climbed on up the wall, ropeless.
I really hope he quits soloing. I don't want to read about him cratering. He has earned a retirement. It is doubtful anyone will repeat what he has done. |
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nw30
Joined: 21 Dec 2008 Posts: 6485 Location: The eye of the universe, Cen. Cal. coast
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Posted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 6:21 pm Post subject: |
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Agreed, he reminds me of Jeb Corliss, the wingsuit flyer, who has had some very close calls. He blames himself, in that he said he lost his fear, which led to his near death several years ago
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hKhofOF_zo |
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windoggi
Joined: 22 Feb 2002 Posts: 2743
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Posted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 8:59 pm Post subject: |
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I'm loosely quoting someone who was referring to Alex quitting soloing..."the snake has been fed, but the snake will be hungry again". _________________ /w\ |
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