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Is This Rig Useable?
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swchandler



Joined: 08 Nov 1993
Posts: 10588

PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The sail definitely needs more downhaul to reduce the cupping close to the mast. Also, when fully downhauled, the tack of the sail should be very close to the pulley on the mast extension. If it's hard to achieve full downhaul, use a tool to help in the effort. You know when you over-downhaul because the lower body of the sail will suddenly form an "S", and it will want to flip the lower batten on the wrong side (when tensioned).

Clearly, the battens need adjusting. One thing to remember is that when sails had adjustable batten tensioners, you need have them loose (released) before starting to rig, and then fully tension them as the last step in the rigging process. When de-rigging, loosen them fully upon initiating the de-rig process.

Lastly, tie-off and adjust the outhaul at the clew after fully downhauling the sail.

The sail is an old design that has a high center of effort (COE) to properly rig to boards that had a more forward placed mast track position on the board. It wasn't until 1991-93 until mast track positions were moved to the rear to a position where they are today. Because of the high COE, these older sails had narrow wind range, and once overpowered they become unruly and difficult. Where these older sails really stood out was their low end power. They were well matched to longboards that needed a bit of extra power to get things rolling. At 6.8m, your NPU sail was a bigger than normal sail in the scheme of things. Usually a normal sail (the one that would come with a complete rig) would be in the 5.7-6.3m range.

Overall, would a more current sail be desirable? Definitely yes, but you would need to get both the mast and the sail. I'm sure the the mast in the NPU is as old as the sail.


Last edited by swchandler on Tue May 06, 2014 3:35 pm; edited 1 time in total
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gregnw44



Joined: 23 Jul 2008
Posts: 783
Location: Seattle, Wa

PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kmf wrote:
Let's put it this way....there isn't anyone on this site, well perhaps one, who would willingly rig this sail and try to sail it fast.

Nuf said.

Keith


LOL Keith... yeah Smile

Hey, I'm just trying to give all sides of the story. And... I'm a practical guy Smile

Experienced guys from around the country, can NOT give helpful and very specific advice, to a novice-intermediate sailor they don't know. Especially without knowing what his exact situation is.

Personally, I have a lot of new sails and a lot of old sails. And boards from 249L raceboards to 83L Gorge boards... from all decades.

A week ago I was the fastest guy on the lake in light to marginal winds (5 - 17 mph stuff)...all sailing raceboards. Most others had new-ish North, Pryde and Sailworks sails, all bigger sized than what I used that day. And those guys are all lighter than me, I was the heaviest, 205lbs.
I used a 1989 9.5M Neil Pryde 3 cam race sail. The shape and batten layout are exactly like the NPU pictured in this thread.

No, it's not worth a thing at a swap meet.
But if it rigs ok... And it's in good condition...
It does have some value, if used in the right conditions... especially since he already has it. It's not like he's going out of his way to actually buy this old sail.

Anyway, IMO, it would be fine for some people in some conditions.
But if he's in a high wind area, and wants to sail those winds on a shortboard. Yeah, he'd do much better with a different rig.

Practically speaking...
Greg Smile
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cgoudie1



Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Posts: 2599
Location: Killer Sturgeon Cove

PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That bottom batten has punched through the batten pocket, or the camber
inducer, if it has one. Tightening it up any more, will just drive the
batten out through the sleeve. Fixing this is almost impossible without an
industrial sowing machine, if the sail is intended to be used without
camber inducers. If the sail is intended to be used with inducers, and
the inducer has had the batten punch through, you can usually repair
that with a little clever plastic engineering, If it was intended to have
a cam and it doesn't, then finding one that fits would be a good idea.
That sail will be seriously twichy in any kind of wind until it's fixed.

-Craig
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jandrew7



Joined: 14 Aug 2013
Posts: 22

PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gregnw44 wrote:
kmf wrote:
Let's put it this way....there isn't anyone on this site, well perhaps one, who would willingly rig this sail and try to sail it fast.

Nuf said.

Keith


LOL Keith... yeah Smile

Hey, I'm just trying to give all sides of the story. And... I'm a practical guy Smile

Experienced guys from around the country, can NOT give helpful and very specific advice, to a novice-intermediate sailor they don't know. Especially without knowing what his exact situation is.

Personally, I have a lot of new sails and a lot of old sails. And boards from 249L raceboards to 83L Gorge boards... from all decades.

A week ago I was the fastest guy on the lake in light to marginal winds (5 - 17 mph stuff)...all sailing raceboards. Most others had new-ish North, Pryde and Sailworks sails, all bigger sized than what I used that day. And those guys are all lighter than me, I was the heaviest, 205lbs.
I used a 1989 9.5M Neil Pryde 3 cam race sail. The shape and batten layout are exactly like the NPU pictured in this thread.

No, it's not worth a thing at a swap meet.
But if it rigs ok... And it's in good condition...
It does have some value, if used in the right conditions... especially since he already has it. It's not like he's going out of his way to actually buy this old sail.

Anyway, IMO, it would be fine for some people in some conditions.
But if he's in a high wind area, and wants to sail those winds on a shortboard. Yeah, he'd do much better with a different rig.

Practically speaking...
Greg Smile


Hey Greg,

I really appreciate you taking the time to respond to my questions. It's people like yourself that propel this sport. I just want to do the best I can with the gear I currently have. I appreciate it! To answer some of your questions-

Here is a photo of my board. (Bic Veloce)
I have a 5.8 sail (around same year) that should work for higher winds.
I weigh about 150 lbs
My boom is not corroded and fully extends. ( Full carbon dynafiber boom )
Average winds on the lake are 10-15. There are good days and bad ones. I prefer to get out whenever I can! I've seen it as low as 5 and as high as 35.

Again, thank you for dealing with my novice questions!



$(KGrHqN,!okFHWEi6-6WBR4R4w!!)g~~60_35.JPG
 Description:
Board
 Filesize:  18.82 KB
 Viewed:  11577 Time(s)

$(KGrHqN,!okFHWEi6-6WBR4R4w!!)g~~60_35.JPG


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jandrew7



Joined: 14 Aug 2013
Posts: 22

PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cgoudie1 wrote:
That bottom batten has punched through the batten pocket, or the camber
inducer, if it has one. Tightening it up any more, will just drive the
batten out through the sleeve. Fixing this is almost impossible without an
industrial sowing machine, if the sail is intended to be used without
camber inducers. If the sail is intended to be used with inducers, and
the inducer has had the batten punch through, you can usually repair
that with a little clever plastic engineering, If it was intended to have
a cam and it doesn't, then finding one that fits would be a good idea.
That sail will be seriously twichy in any kind of wind until it's fixed.

-Craig


Thanks Craig, I'll try my hand at fixing it.
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jandrew7



Joined: 14 Aug 2013
Posts: 22

PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

swchandler wrote:
The sail definitely needs more downhaul to reduce the cupping close to the mast. Also, when fully downhauled, the tack of the sail should be very close to the pulley on the mast extension. If it's hard to achieve full downhaul, use a tool to help in the effort. You know when you over-downhaul because the lower body of the sail will suddenly form an "S", and it will want to flip the lower batten on the wrong side (when tensioned).

Clearly, the battens need adjusting. One thing to remember is that when sails had adjustable batten tensioners, you need have them loose (released) before starting to rig, and then fully tension them as the last step in the rigging process. When de-rigging, loosen them fully upon initiating the de-rig process.

Lastly, tie-off and adjust the outhaul at the clew after fully downhauling the sail.

The sail is an old design that has a high center of effort (COE) to properly rig to boards that had a more forward placed mast track position on the board. It wasn't until 1991-93 until mast track positions were moved to the rear to a position where they are today. Because of the high COE, these older sails had narrow wind range, and once overpowered they become unruly and difficult. Where these older sails really stood out was their low end power. They were well matched to longboards that needed a bit of extra power to get things rolling. At 6.8m, your NPU sail was a bigger than normal sail in the scheme of things. Usually a normal sail (the one that would come with a complete rig) would be in the 5.7-6.3m range.

Overall, would a more current sail be desirable? Definitely yes, but you would need to get both the mast and the sail. I'm sure the the mast in the NPU is as old as the sail.


Thanks! I wasn't sure on the rigging. Thanks for the tips. I'll try again.
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jandrew7



Joined: 14 Aug 2013
Posts: 22

PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

spennie wrote:
+1 for bred2shred, with this edit: 1995 or later would be fine.


What do you think a newer sail of this size will go for? I really want to keep it under $100. If that's not possible I totally understand, but will probably wait till next year to upgrade.
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mark



Joined: 10 Apr 2000
Posts: 181

PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Regarding the lower batten that has poked through the webbing. The quick fix would be to use a large needle and heavy duty thread and sew a running stich across the pocket right where the stiching is for the luff sock. You can trim the batten a bit and cut it at an angle so the end is parallel to the stiching.

You can also do an internet search for batten end protector and you will find a two part plastic piece that you can pop rivet to the batten pocket. You may have to shorten the batten several inches because it won't stick quite as far into the batten pocket. If you can't find that part locally send me a PM and I will mail you a couple. I still have a bag of them from when I used to build my own windsurfing sails. They install with 3 pop rivets or you can use 3 small screws. The holes can be made by heating a small nail with a blow torch or on a stove and burning through the sail. I use a set of vise grips to hold the nail and mark the location with an awl.

The sail definitely needs more downhaul and maybe a little more outhaul.

The way the top batten is cupping may indicate that the batten is either not stiff enough or it is in backwards. Make sure that the tapered end is inserted first assuming that the batten is tapered.
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jandrew7



Joined: 14 Aug 2013
Posts: 22

PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mark wrote:
Regarding the lower batten that has poked through the webbing. The quick fix would be to use a large needle and heavy duty thread and sew a running stich across the pocket right where the stiching is for the luff sock. You can trim the batten a bit and cut it at an angle so the end is parallel to the stiching.

You can also do an internet search for batten end protector and you will find a two part plastic piece that you can pop rivet to the batten pocket. You may have to shorten the batten several inches because it won't stick quite as far into the batten pocket. If you can't find that part locally send me a PM and I will mail you a couple. I still have a bag of them from when I used to build my own windsurfing sails. They install with 3 pop rivets or you can use 3 small screws. The holes can be made by heating a small nail with a blow torch or on a stove and burning through the sail. I use a set of vise grips to hold the nail and mark the location with an awl.

The sail definitely needs more downhaul and maybe a little more outhaul.

The way the top batten is cupping may indicate that the batten is either not stiff enough or it is in backwards. Make sure that the tapered end is inserted first assuming that the batten is tapered.


Thanks! I'll take a closer look at my battens and get back to you. Do you think I should make my extension longer? Or should I just downhaul more at the current setting?
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gregnw44



Joined: 23 Jul 2008
Posts: 783
Location: Seattle, Wa

PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 11:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jandrew7 - Thanks for the kind words.
I, like many here, are always willing to help newcomers. But it's a complicated sport, and there's a million variables... and people live in different parts of the country... and many have completely different goals for their windsurfing future. Therefore, it's hard to give specific advice that is truly helpful. If you went to a local shop, a good retailer would ask all the same stuff... he'd know a lot more, with a face to face chat in 5 min than we can here. And he'd know your local conditions.
Anyway... there aren't very many windsurfing shops anymore... so this forum may be all you've got. Maybe you can find some experienced locals... I bet there's some kind of windsurfing club, somewhere within 100 miles of you. You can email with those guys and probably get great info.
More soon !!
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