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Tools required to disassemble mast base joints
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manuel



Joined: 08 Oct 2007
Posts: 141

PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 8:56 am    Post subject: Tools required to disassemble mast base joints Reply with quote

For US cups, both Chinook and Streamlined joints, what tools do we need to rebuild them?

Does the socket need to be deep or can a regular one fit inside the top part?
Can it be either a 1/4" or 3/8" drive?

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spennie



Joined: 13 Oct 1995
Posts: 829
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA

PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 9:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A #1 Phillips screwdriver to get those top screws out of the cover. 15mm deep socket, 3/8" drive, probably need to generate a lot of torque to get it apart. Vise or pipe wrench to hold the old hourglass rubber. Loctite threadlocker #271 (red) or #242 (blue), red is stronger, it's what I use, for re-assembly.

If you have a good grip on the rubber but the bolt's still turning that means the metal insert cast into the rubber is slipping, that's where the pipe wrench comes in. This will chew up the rubber, but it's the old rubber. Someone will post that you need to use a torch, but you don't, just gotta keep adding torque until it moves.

Once you get it apart, clean the threads on both items as best you can, apply the Loctite liberally, and bolt it back together using as much torque as you can manage without chewing up the new hourglass. MAKE SURE THE CUP STILL SPINS FREELY ON TOP OF THE HOURGLASS, and also in it's base, if applicable. Wait 12-24 hours, go sailing!

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manuel



Joined: 08 Oct 2007
Posts: 141

PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you, do you think a regular 15mm with the little 3" extension would work too? I remember having a problem with the socket wall being too thick once.
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bred2shred



Joined: 02 May 2000
Posts: 658
Location: Jersey Shore

PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A standard socket with an extension will work fine, you don't need to use a deep socket. A 3/8" drive is best since a 1/4" drive probably won't give you enough torque. Also, the bolt is installed from the factory using RED Loctite (permenant). To get the bolt out, you will probably need to heat it up. The shop I worked at, we would slip a short length of copper tubing over the head of the bolt and heat up the tubing using a propane torch to soften the Loctite. Then unscrew the bolt (the tubing helps to keep the heat directed on the bolt and not on the plastic).

You absolutely need to reinstall the cup using RED Loctite on the bolt threads. Do not use any loctite other than RED as the other colors are not permanent and can come apart while sailing.

sm
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mark



Joined: 10 Apr 2000
Posts: 112

PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The socket size should be 13mm which is the standard size for an 8mm bolt. It does not have to be a deep socket if you have an extension. As mentioned above use of the proper thread lock is very important.
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spennie



Joined: 13 Oct 1995
Posts: 829
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA

PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 1:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

See, told ya somebody would tell you to use a torch! Not necessary, just get macho with it!

To be honest, not sure anymore if it's 15mm or 13, as stated here.

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manuel



Joined: 08 Oct 2007
Posts: 141

PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like a 13mm, which is the deep socket I'm often using and losing!
So long as a regular one fits then I should be ok.

The removal worries me. As I don't have tools here I need to get a set and the cheap ones may not cope with the extra torque needed to break it loose.
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westender



Joined: 02 Aug 2007
Posts: 633
Location: Portland / Gorge

PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 4:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Locktite says you have to heat to 500f to disassemble??? Rolling Eyes

I had a job with the same size fasteners as the Boge' joints with a LOT of red where blue should have been. It's a bit of a challenge but it will come apart.
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mark



Joined: 10 Apr 2000
Posts: 112

PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2014 12:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did not see a universal joint so it crossed my mind that you may be planning to use the old one. I would highly recommend replacing it particularly if heat or excessive force was required for removal.
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bred2shred



Joined: 02 May 2000
Posts: 658
Location: Jersey Shore

PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2014 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

westender wrote:
Locktite says you have to heat to 500f to disassemble???


You can try to do it without heating and then add heat if it won't come apart. The problem is getting a good grip on the U-Joint is real tough as pipe clamps and bench vices tend to just allow the joint to spin when a lot of torque is applied. If that happens, your only option is to add heat. There is also the risk of snapping off the bolt head if you apply too much torque. It all depends on how much loctite was used during the assembly. Anyway, I wouldn't want to re-use a U-Joint after disassembling as it is likely to be damaged from gripping in a vice or from adding heat or both.

Honestly, it's been a while since I've taken one of these apart because for me, I'd prefer to just plunk down $67 every couple years on a new mast foot assembly rather than try to save a few bucks rebuilding them. You never know what you're going to damage during the rebuild and the u-joint and cup are wear items anyway, so by the time you replace those two parts, you're almost up to the cost of an entire new foot anyway. Very little savings for the hassle and risk.

sm
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