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Advice on new (used) rig
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Thurston



Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 88

PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, just as expected that craigslist setup sold before I got back. Back to the drawing board...

Nags Head/Outerbanks is a very cool place. I didn't get a chance to rent a windsurfer, they were hard to find but I think I'd have better luck further south towards Cape Hatteras. I did get some surfing in though Cool
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Thurston



Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 88

PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to look at replacing missing/broken parts on my old board while I keep an eye open for a good deal on a newer setup. To start with I need a new universal joint (please let me know if I have the terminology wrong). I took a picture of my mast base. Can anyone tell me what I should be looking for to get a U-joint that fits?



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swchandler



Joined: 08 Nov 1993
Posts: 5774

PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quite honestly, your chances of finding an OEM universal with the proper pin configuration is a virtual impossibility. During the time that the board was made, the European windsurfing industry wasn't focused on standard sizing, so each company would design their own unique components. There is a chance that a Mistral, F2 or HiFly universal pin would work, but unfortunately, older universals from any of these manufacturers are super tough to find these days.

Really, your best option is to reverse engineer a pin design that will work in the in black adjustable car component you currently have. Once the pin design is defined, you can have it custom manufactured at a machine shop that specializes in turning. On the screw-in side that abuts the tendon or hourglass assembly, you can have it made with a 1/4 20 thread that will interface with a modern Chinook or Streamlined universal components.

You do have another option that would involve removing the existing car assembly and its integrated details and concentrate on making a simple combination of details that will allow you to attach a modern Chinook or Streamlined universal. Essentially you remove the threaded plate that comes with the modern universal and make or buy a larger plate (check out the Mistral Slider component on the link below) that will allow you to attach everything to the aluminum mast track that's currently in the board. The only downside is that the mast track is no longer adjustable on the fly.

http://www.chinooksailing.com/products/index.php?cPath=6_58&osCsid=enefqk4mmdnrq31qo49ilia8o2
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Thurston



Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 88

PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

swchandler wrote:

Really, your best option is to reverse engineer a pin design that will work in the in black adjustable car component you currently have. Once the pin design is defined, you can have it custom manufactured at a machine shop that specializes in turning. On the screw-in side that abuts the tendon or hourglass assembly, you can have it made with a 1/4 20 thread that will interface with a modern Chinook or Streamlined universal components.



Interesting idea... so the piece I'd need would have a pin on one end to lock into my car, and then a FEMALE 1/4"-20 threaded hole on the other end for a newer u-joint?
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whitevan01



Joined: 29 Jun 2007
Posts: 473

PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

try getting an Exocet or RSX mast track pin for your universal. believe it or not, that pin, works on both my Exocet Pacer 300 (newer board) and my early 90's Fanatic Megacat. the mast tracks and cars are pretty much identical as far as I can tell.
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swchandler



Joined: 08 Nov 1993
Posts: 5774

PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

"Interesting idea... so the piece I'd need would have a pin on one end to lock into my car, and then a FEMALE 1/4"-20 threaded hole on the other end for a newer u-joint?"


The threaded end could be either female or male depending on the mating configuration of Chinook or Streamlined universal assemblies. A machine shop would have no problem making either style. I have to admit that in all the years that I've windsurfed, I have never disassembled a universal assembly. When they started getting funky and worn-out, I simply bought a new one. I still have a sizable collection of worn universals that I have retired over time. Many of them just need a new tendon or US cup component.

If you want to pursue machining a pin, I would contact Chinook or Streamlined and find out how their universals are configured, and arrange to buy the limited component assembly/parts that you need.
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DelCarpenter



Joined: 06 Nov 2008
Posts: 179
Location: Cedar Falls, IA

PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thurston, for those of us who have old unused equipment and might have what you need, please provide some measurements regarding the mast foot car on your mast track: a. Inside diameter of the female part of the car, b. depth from top of the car to the sliding metal fingers that would hold the pin, c. width between the inside edges of the sliding metal fingers, and d. thickness of the sliding metal fingers. Measurements in millimeters would be the best, inches would also work. The "d" measurement is probably the least important since something which fits the other three most likely also fits "d".

In the picture of your mast foot car I think I can see part of the sliding metal fingers. Is that correct? Have you tried to pull them out far enough to allow a pin to fit into the female part of the car?

The pins are so different for my old Fanatic Bat and Fanatic MegaCat, the Bat pin is twice or more the diameter of the MegaCat pin.
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Thurston



Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 88

PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 4:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey, thanks for offering to help. Yes there are horizontal bars/fingers that slide out and yes they do work.

I measured the dimensions you asked for with a tape measure and converted to metric, so hopefully they are close enough. They are:

A (Hole diameter) = 3/4"=19mm
B (Depth of bars from top) = 5/16"= 8mm
C (Spacing between bars) = 7/16" = 11.11mm
D (Diameter/thickness of bars) = 1/8" = 3.2mm
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DelCarpenter



Joined: 06 Nov 2008
Posts: 179
Location: Cedar Falls, IA

PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sorry, Thurston, the mast foot pins I have are either bigger or smaller than what you need. I hope the measurements you provided will lead to finding someone who has and is willing to part with what you need.
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Thurston



Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 88

PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure if I should post a new topic or not...

I've started looking at new, old year models as an option. It would be much more expensive than buying used, but also less of a headache and I'd end up with better gear.

I came across this package deal on curtis sport connection:
2009 Starboard Go 151 with a Chinook Powerglide rig (including sail, mast, boom, extension and base) all for $1495. This seems like a good deal and the Go 151 seems like a really good "progression" board.

Does anyone have experience with the Chinook Powerglide rig? Also, would this be a good setup for me to get back into windsurfing?

Edit: By the way, the 151 have a removable center fin
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