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Integral Threaded Studs for Roof Rack
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Thinman



Joined: 16 Nov 2011
Posts: 3

PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 11:03 am    Post subject: Integral Threaded Studs for Roof Rack Reply with quote

Iíve been using traditional clip fastened roof racks forever, a Yakima Q Tower for the last ten years or so. I just acquired a 2002 BMW sedan that has four integral threaded studs (2 per side) in the roof drainage channel with a nifty flip up cover that provides access. Iím sure I can get a set of foot pads that will continue to allow me to use the clip system with this car, but I wonder if anyone has had experience using the integral studs. The clip approach ainít broke, but Iíll happily use the studs if itís at least as good of a system, and maybe better in terms of the structural security of the anchorage. I realize it means taking screws out to uninstall the rack which is more time consuming than the clips. The stud system may very well be the anchorage approach that all ďfactoryĒ racks utilize, and just as proven as the clip system Thanks for any thoughts.
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bred2shred



Joined: 02 May 2000
Posts: 617
Location: Jersey Shore

PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 11:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My Element uses a similar system except that it has female threaded insertes welded to the edge of the roof and covered by plastic trim. The base/foot of the roof rack system screws down to the inserts and remains permanently attached to the roof. The rack bars and towers just pop on and off of the foot. I imagine your car would be similar in that it is unlikely that you will need to unscrew your rack each time you want to remove it. Most likely, you will just have a small, low profile foot that stays on the roof permanently.

In any case, threaded studs seem like a much stronger system for attaching a rack than going under the door.

sm
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quigley



Joined: 23 Mar 2010
Posts: 32

PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Saab has used that system with Thoule racks for years. It not only makes for a secure mount but when the doors are closed and locked prevents the rack from being stolen.
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spennie



Joined: 13 Oct 1995
Posts: 699
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA

PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My wife's car was parked at college for a night class, filthy theiving bastards popped the $600. racks off by prying the clips right out from under the door edge, took the whole system. Clips only had a 90 degree bend, made them very easy to steal. We bought replacement racks and I screwed them right into the roof with #14 stainless steel security head sheet metal screws & urethane caulk. Not worried about resale, plan to drive it till it stops.

I'd go with the integral studs, probably take longer than 20 seconds to steal, then. Everyone else, beware!

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isobars



Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 13292

PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 4:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many OEM roof rack mounts are just swaged/expanded/pressed into sheet metal, intended to support modest loads, not "hold down" boards hanging over the windshield into the slipstream. I'd investigate (e.g., body shop, detailed factory maintenance diagrams, junkyard) the OEM anchors, and if not persuaded of their ability to resist cantilevered board nose lift at high speeds in extreme gusts, would find another way. Spennie's sheet metal screws are probably good, and big honkin' nuts and bolts down to roof support structures are better. If it ever matters, a body shop could easily plug and paint the holes for resale.
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ramps



Joined: 07 May 2000
Posts: 53

PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

...and replace the headliner that will get stained from inevitable water leaks.
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isobars



Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 13292

PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had no problem yet with leaks, but then I go nuts with gaskets and sealant.
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paulf.



Joined: 21 Mar 1996
Posts: 303

PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

guy at work had the yakima through the roof system installed(by a body shop)on his quad cab and carries two ocean kayaks all over no problem. clean low profile system that might look like your oem. check out the yakima site.
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DanWeiss



Joined: 24 Jun 2008
Posts: 1889
Location: Connecticut, USA

PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I installed through-the-roof gutter-brackets from Thule. They provide a hold for gutter-mount towers where no gutter exists. In this case my car was a small coupe (VW Scirroco) that didn't provide sufficient spread between the front and rear tower locations -at least to support my gear at highway speeds.

No leaking whatsoever. Use plenty of caulk, and apply a small amount to the bolt threads. This pushes the caulk into all nooks and crannies. Really sealed it up and worked for the two years I owned the car. Again, no leaks but a torn headliner due to install.

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gregnw44



Joined: 23 Jul 2008
Posts: 189

PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 12:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

To original poster "Thinman"... Don't you mean that the BMW has, integral threaded inserts, and not studs ??
It's confusing cause you mention a couple times about "the studs"... but then you also mention, having to remove the rack screws to remove the rack. So, do really mean that the car has integral inserts, right? Not built-in studs... or, does it?

Anyway, I'm guessing it has integral threaded inserts. And yes, this is a reliable system. It is probably kinda similar to the Saab approach as "Quigley" mentioned.
And it would be harder to steal, than what happened to Spennie.
Geez, no kidding "filthy theiving bastards" !!
That's really crappy... very sorry to hear about it. I guess I've just been lucky. I haven't heard much, of that kind of theft before.

And Isobars is right as well... but, you're not in that situation with the BMW factory inserts. Anyway, I agree with what he said. I have shopped for so many kinds of vehicles over 30 years of carrying windsurfers. And when I ask about factory racks, they always just tell you about "the load it can carry". But that's not what I'm worried about. I carry longboards and a few shortboards, up on my roof-rack. They're not so heavy. But, if I'm driving at 60 mph into a Gorge headwind of 30... the "pulling force up" is huge !!
So yes... I've looked into that stuff... and I've never had a problem.
And yes, I load the gear very carefully. And if it is "Nukin"... I slow down a bit.

Also agree with Dan and others.. properly installed "through-the roof" systems... are strong and will not leak... and will not damage your head-liner. That's what I have now on my AWD van. This van has been parked outside in Seattle rain for 9 1/2 years. And it has been up at the ski areas parked in below freezing temps, at least 20 times a winter for 9 years. That's a lot of snow and ice, potentially wearing out the attachment system and causing leaks.
And it has carried loads like 2 longboards and 3 shortboards to the Gorge for 9 years.
I've had no leaks in the Thule "through the roof mount system"... or any headliner damage.

Anyway, this is all very good stuff to be aware of... and to be careful about. You could kill someone behind you, if a board went flying off your roof. Ot at least damage your roof, or rack... and for sure "total" your board(s).
And if any of those things happened... it would really ruin your nicely planned windsurfing day Smile
Greg -
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