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Old Chinook 1 bolt base with rubber u joint question
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cgoudie1



Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Posts: 1124
Location: Killer Sturgeon Cove

PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep that rubber hourglass does stretch and bend, and frankly,
I can feel a difference in how much more pounding I take if I'm
on a tendon, or worse yet, a mechanical uni. I like rubber!

YMMV,

-Craig

swchandler wrote:
As an aside, one can always avoid the pain and difficulty of removing and installing hourglasses by switching over to universals with tendons. I did it many many years ago.

Ever look down at a hourglass type universal while sailing? It's an eyeopener for sure. Tendon type universals do cost a bit more, but you get a superior product that is far more serviceable.
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zirtaeb



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 2144

PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Couple decades back, a lot of the speed trials sailors bought mechanical and tendon joints hoping the stiffer connection would make for more control and thus more speed.
Every single one went back to rubber or tendon, with tendons not favored in choppy waters or where you gotta sail back upwind to the start line.
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bred2shred



Joined: 02 May 2000
Posts: 617
Location: Jersey Shore

PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

zirtaeb wrote:
Always used blue loctite, clean threads, a little dab on both nut and bolt.
Never had one come apart, in well over 30.


Blue loctite (242) is certainly better than no loctite. However, the blue is intended to be used with fasteners that are regularly disassembled. The red loctite (271) is intended for permanent applications and requires heating to 500F to break free.

I would personally never recommend using anything other than red loctite as if one of he u-joint bolts comes loose, you will not only lose the hour glass but also the u-joint safety strap. This means that your board and rig will separate.

sm
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zirtaeb



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 2144

PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Then we'd better read the directions for application again, this time really.
Clean parts, as everyone said. But you drop onto both surfaces, then put it together for the best bond.
Kinda hard to reach inside the basecup to the nut to heat the nut without frying the plastic basecup.
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isobars



Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 13282

PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

zirtaeb wrote:
Off center.....
I was sailing Kailua a couple do
my univeral was out almost to the rails of my board. I just laughed, as they've gotten that bad on me during some SantaCruz slalom series races, AND IT MADE NO DIFFERENCE!
Offset makes no difference whatsoever, except in your head.
The sail is cut more offcenter. Your harness lines are never even. You have left and right sides that work better than the other.

And one hangs lower.
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bred2shred



Joined: 02 May 2000
Posts: 617
Location: Jersey Shore

PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2013 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

zirtaeb wrote:

Kinda hard to reach inside the basecup to the nut to heat the nut without frying the plastic basecup.


At the shop where I used to work, we would take a length of copper tube and place it over the head of the bolt (hold it using a pair of pliers). Then use a propane torch and shoot the flame down into the tube. The copper tube, being highly conductive, would help direct the heat into the bolt and prevent the cup from melting. As I recall, this system seemed to work quite well.

sm
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zirtaeb



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 2144

PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2013 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

At our shops, and I worked at 4, we just overpowered the nut to bolt connection with a breaker bar. Secured joint to vise and strap wrench, the joint is already going to be thrown out, so it don't matter if we crush it to remove the nuts. We can shear off the bolts with our 3' lever bars....boom extension tubes.
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