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Transition from 130 L to 105 L board range
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adywind



Joined: 08 Jan 2012
Posts: 226

PostPosted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 11:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I resolved the same issues for myself by following these instructions from Guy Cribbs PDFs: in a nutshell -for planning sooner and preventing the board from rounding upwind : intentionally PUSH HARD WITH YOUR FRONT ARM DOWN ON THE BOOM / overhand grip required/. Do this while turning downwind and try to hang from the boom hooked in or not /for motivation imagine there's nothing underneath you but the Hells fires :0/
-for not spinning out at the slightest chop when going fast: STAY UPRIGHT .Todays boards and sails in general favore more upright stance. So when you start to get overpowerd push your ass out and your shoulders in while bending your arms, as opposed to leaning as fahr back as possible like in the old days. For all this to work you need to be powered up of course, so have an adequate size sail. Too much downhaul doesn't work for inland lakes sailing, no mather what Guy says.
Although JPs fins tend to be on the smaller side, don't rush to replace yours yet. You will love it when it gets rough.
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isobras



Joined: 17 Jul 2012
Posts: 439

PostPosted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 12:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Transition from 130 L to 105 L board range Reply with quote

Ugly_Bird wrote:
I seem put to much pressure on the back of the board making it to round up upwind before it starts to plane.

All the steering tips here are valid and important, and the problem you describe above is vital. I put virtually no pressure on the back of my boards until I'm planing, and that becomes ever more important as volume decreases. There's nothing wrong with putting a foot back there, but we can't weight that foot until either static flotation (Volume!) or dynamic flotation (from planing) supports that weight without sinking the tail.

No plowing allowed!

Mike \OO/
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