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Mistral Equipe II 1995 - Leak at Seams
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northshorehc



Joined: 14 Jan 2008
Posts: 111

PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 10:30 am    Post subject: Mistral Equipe II 1995 - Leak at Seams Reply with quote

*update*: Thanks to the help I received here I was able to solve the problem. I've added an "after" photo to this post showing the results below.

If you'd like to read the details of the project please see my post further down the thread titled "Success". Thanks.


I heard some hissing when loading my board yesterday. I looked and saw where it was coming from and I noticed droplets of water surrounded and dripping from the area.

I weighed the board, which was 30.3 lbs. The advertised weight when new is 28.4.

I did install a heavy duty gasket which may have added some extra weight. The weight does appear to be the same as when I purchased the board used a few years ago, though.

I'm wondering if anyone as experience or advice when repairing something like this. I heard it can happen with some Equipes.

Thanks.

Below is a picture of the general leak area

Before



After



Last edited by northshorehc on Sat Jul 07, 2012 7:14 am; edited 2 times in total
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zirtaeb



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 1768

PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lots of seamed boards leak right at the seams, which is why most sailors don't like boards with seams.
Grind it down below the surface, fill it with fiberglass and epoxy resin, sand coat it, sand it, gloss coat it, polish it, paint it.
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RaceboardDude



Joined: 08 Dec 2010
Posts: 49

PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DELETE

Last edited by RaceboardDude on Sun Jul 01, 2012 5:10 pm; edited 1 time in total
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northshorehc



Joined: 14 Jan 2008
Posts: 111

PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. I have some West System epoxy so it sounds like this might come in handy.

I couldn't find an overly soft spot but I think it might be becoming very slightly delaminated in the area of concern. I say this because there seemed to be some movement after pressing in hard with my index finger just above the seam.

I like the idea of doing the entire board all the way around.

Because of limited space I had to keep the board outside under a tarp and on milk crates this year. So much for avoiding temperature and pressure changes Sad

Thanks for the helpful advice. This approach seems pretty straight forward I should be able to manage it just fine.


Last edited by northshorehc on Sun Jul 01, 2012 7:02 pm; edited 2 times in total
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gobbdogg



Joined: 28 Sep 2008
Posts: 108

PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I Had an Electron that did the same- West System won't stick unless you grind down to the glass under the ABS skin- it might adhere to the edge of the seam but ultimately will crack off the skin. The quickest and long lasting fix is to buy a tube of Dow 5200 Marine sealant- most marine supplier will have it.. Clean the whole edge well- both for salt crust and any grease- ie, alcohol wiped on it- the smear the 5200 and cover the seam and filet it out- it'll smooth out the edge and stick incredibly well. It's a bit messy and has a long cure time- 24 hrs minimum- but it'll hold up great. You could tape off each side of the seam about a 1/16" to 1/8" if you want a real crisp line. I love West system, but it's not the right tool for this job.
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northshorehc



Joined: 14 Jan 2008
Posts: 111

PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Gobbdogg. I heard of 5200 but have never used it before. I'll look into this option. I don't mind if its a messy job because I'd like to keep the board for awhile.

I wonder how Sikaflex would do. I forget its application but I might check this out as well.
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norcom



Joined: 16 Jun 2008
Posts: 83

PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had a similar issue with the F2 Lightning Race. I took some Loctite 1405604 Marine Epoxy gel and applied it all the way around the seam. It stuck pretty well. It's available at most stores and is a cheap/fast solution.
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gobbdogg



Joined: 28 Sep 2008
Posts: 108

PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 4:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I beilieve Sikaflex is very similiar... good luck!
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northshorehc



Joined: 14 Jan 2008
Posts: 111

PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 7:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys. I appreciate this. It looks like I have a few options.

This is the first time I heard of the Loctite epoxy gel.

I could make a small repair for the season and then take on the bigger project in the late fall.

Thanks for the tips/advice.

*Had to laugh at this one. Check out the list price of Loctite's epoxy gel Smile

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superkraut



Joined: 18 Mar 2001
Posts: 150

PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

these boards had their fiberglass shells completed before they were placed into a mold with the ASA skin. The seam, then, is in the ASA only, NOT the fiberglass structure. Unless there was an impact or such, the structural fiberglass shell will be watertight, and whatever "leak" you have, be confined to a pocket between ASA skin and glass shell. Which would explain why your weight remains virtually unchanged.
Best way to test just what is going on, would be to install a retro vent plug and then do a pressure test
Eva
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