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getting rid of seam on older board

 
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mchaco1



Joined: 08 Sep 2010
Posts: 643

PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 2:20 pm    Post subject: getting rid of seam on older board Reply with quote

I have an F2 Wave 264 with the seam all around the edge. Would there be any harm in cutting off the part that sticks out and maybe glassing over it? It has a nose job and I want to smooth that out too so may try both at the same time.
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cgoudie1



Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Posts: 1271
Location: Killer Sturgeon Cove

PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 3:09 pm    Post subject: Re: getting rid of seam on older board Reply with quote

I don't really know that board (well, I saw yours at the swap),
but if it has a seam, there's a good chance
it has a theromplastic skin (polycarbonate). I don't think you're going to
be able to get glass and resin to stick to that very well, and you'd have to
wrap the rails to make it work in any reasonable fashion, which would
really add weight.

I'd be really careful if I were you.

-Craig

[quote="mchaco1"]I have an F2 Wave 264 with the seam all around the edge. Would there be any harm in cutting off the part that sticks out and maybe glassing over it? It has a nose job and I want to smooth that out too so may try both at the same time.[/quote]
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mchaco1



Joined: 08 Sep 2010
Posts: 643

PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 3:25 pm    Post subject: Re: getting rid of seam on older board Reply with quote

cgoudie1 wrote:
I don't really know that board (well, I saw yours at the swap),
but if it has a seam, there's a good chance
it has a theromplastic skin (polycarbonate). I don't think you're going to
be able to get glass and resin to stick to that very well, and you'd have to
wrap the rails to make it work in any reasonable fashion, which would
really add weight.

I'd be really careful if I were you.

-Craig

yeah its thermoplastic, I was a bit worried if glass would stick, but the nosejob is epoxy and it seems to stick fine
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cgoudie1



Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Posts: 1271
Location: Killer Sturgeon Cove

PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 3:45 pm    Post subject: Re: getting rid of seam on older board Reply with quote

Yes, and as a cap it's probably not too big a problem, but along the rails,
it's going to have to flex a bit. If you were willing to wrap the rails,
maybe, but the thing is going to weigh another 5 lbs or so (not to mention
a real pain to sand down).

That seam must really really bug you. If water gets between the skin,
and whatever is underneath, it's eventually going to heat up and delam
the skin, when that happens, your board is pretty much toast.

If I had a board that nice, I might get out my bondo (which is also really
heavy by the way). smooth out the nose work until it was clean looking,
sand it down until it was sweet, primer it, and the have the yellow paint
color matched at some auto paint store for a couple of cans of epoxy
paint. Spray it on, maybe put in a little grit on the deck to make it look
professional, and call it good. Or ........... I might just ride it like it is.

It's a good thing you've never seen my go to board, it's beaten all to crap,
but it still rides sweet!

-Craig

mchaco1 wrote:

yeah its thermoplastic, I was a bit worried if glass would stick, but the nosejob is epoxy and it seems to stick fine
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zirtaeb



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 2402

PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Epoxy resin on fiberglass cloth will stick to the inside glass of the F2, after you sand off the yellow paint. MarineTex is much more prone to failure than one single layer of cloth saturated in epoxy, applied over the previous seam area, with about 3/4" overlap.
Gotta sand off the yellow. You get clear/gray epoxy underneath.
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jingebritsen



Joined: 21 Aug 2002
Posts: 2437

PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

is your time more valuable invested in buying a newer board instead? the pay off vs work is not great on this one.
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Sailboarder



Joined: 10 Apr 2011
Posts: 443

PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My old longboard is made of ASA thermoplastic . Epoxy adheres well to it.

I did a repair that covers a part of the seam, without removing it. 6 oz fiber glass needed about an inch each side of the seam to conform to it without raising. The result is smoother for the kids ankles. The repair held to a week of naval warfare, windsurfing and SUPing.

If I was to try to smooth all the "falling area" for the kids, I would use Bondo or epoxy with filler to smooth only the top part of the seam, without removing the seam itself.
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mchaco1



Joined: 08 Sep 2010
Posts: 643

PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was mainly thinking doing it as a preventative thing, and cause it just looks bad. The board is still tight, light and dry and in great shape other than the nose. The nose is cut off straight so I might just round it off a bit and give it a more modern profile. My plan was to run a 1" glass strip around the edge after grinding down the seam. If I have to sand down to the layer underneath then its probably not worth it.

I already have a newer board of this size, but they dont really make 95L boards this skinny anymore, and its a nice higher gusty wind board for someone who isnt the typical 150-170lb Laughing
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zirtaeb



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 2402

PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1" fiberglass tape, usually 8 oz, but 6 is better, does the job just fine, without sanding into the clear/gray old cloth and epoxy. Just sand off the paint.
Lots of guys did this to their Equipes and Cats, and ERocks for racing.
264 is still a fast moving wave board, really great jibing, and just floaty enough for 199lbs'ers.
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swchandler



Joined: 08 Nov 1993
Posts: 5878

PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm with Craig about leaving the seam alone, as it was originally designed not to interfere with planing flow or to adversely affect performance. However, if the board was leaking at the seam, it would then warrant either removing the seam in the subject area and applying fiberglass and epoxy to repair it, or sealing the area with a high quality marine sealant.

If you were to elect to remove the seam in its entirety, like Craig points out that you will add measurable weight to the board. Moreover, getting the final paint job to match well is no easy task. Since thermoplastic ASA boards generally weight notably more to begin with, you're actually doing yourself a favor by not making the board any heavier. Finally, the potential for spending a lot of time, money and effort turning the board into a slug is a real possibility.
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