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jse
Joined: 17 Apr 1995 Posts: 1460 Location: Maui
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Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 7:36 pm Post subject: Locking pin for sailable SUP? |
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I have a SUP that has two holes where you can screw in a universal, the kind that has one bolt and takes a nut to lock into a mast track. So rather than use the nut, you just screw the uni in sans nut. I'd like to carry it on my car but I'm worried that there is a market for SUP's as opposed to WS boards, so it would be stolen. It's too long to fit in my vehicle. Wondering if anyone has heard of a bolt that you could screw in with a ring on it, then run a chain around your rack.
Steve |
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bred2shred
Joined: 02 May 2000 Posts: 989 Location: Jersey Shore
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Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 7:34 am Post subject: |
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If it has two threaded holes for the mast foot, then I would just go to the hardware store and buy two steel eyebolts with the same thread as the mast foot bolt (3/8"-16?). Thread the eyebolts into the mast foot inserts and then pass a cable through both eyebolts (this will make it impossible to unscrew the eyebolts) and around the roofrack and lock with a padlock.
The other option would be to use a pair of locking roof rack straps. These are what I use.
http://www.steelcore.net/surf.html
sm |
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hilton08
Joined: 02 Apr 2000 Posts: 505
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Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 9:53 am Post subject: |
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Great idea on the eye bolts, but the threads in the board should be metric (8mm). Even with just one eye bolt it should be rather difficult to spin the board or twist the cable to unscrew it while locked depending on how you thread the cable.
If the board has a regular US fin box, there are also fin box locks you can get. |
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bred2shred
Joined: 02 May 2000 Posts: 989 Location: Jersey Shore
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Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 11:35 am Post subject: |
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hilton08 wrote: | Great idea on the eye bolts, but the threads in the board should be metric (8mm). |
Not sure, but in either case, you can get metric eyebolts if necessary. Check mcmaster.com.
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swchandler
Joined: 08 Nov 1993 Posts: 10588
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Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 12:52 pm Post subject: |
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From the old days, I still have one of those lockable two-piece die-cast metal assembly, which upon insertion into the finbox, you can pass through a lockable braided stainless steel cable. The two-piece assembly and the cable were originally sold together. However, with the fin in place (which is required to work), you do need the added finbox space in front of the fin. If the finbox is quite small, like they are on many production boards today, one could always get a high aspect/narrow chord fin to make things work.
I don't know if these assemblies are still sold today, but I would guess so since the demand in the longboard surfing scene is probably still pretty strong, as they still use a standard US box for the center fin on many boards. I haven't used mine for probably 15 years, as I store my boards in a full sized van. If you have trouble finding one, let me know. |
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mchaco1
Joined: 08 Sep 2010 Posts: 645
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DanWeiss
Joined: 24 Jun 2008 Posts: 2296 Location: Connecticut, USA
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Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 4:25 pm Post subject: |
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swchandler wrote: | From the old days, I still have one of those lockable two-piece die-cast metal assembly, which upon insertion into the finbox, you can pass through a lockable braided stainless steel cable. The two-piece assembly and the cable were originally sold together. However, with the fin in place (which is required to work), you do need the added finbox space in front of the fin. If the finbox is quite small, like they are on many production boards today, one could always get a high aspect/narrow chord fin to make things work.
I don't know if these assemblies are still sold today, but I would guess so since the demand in the longboard surfing scene is probably still pretty strong, as they still use a standard US box for the center fin on many boards. I haven't used mine for probably 15 years, as I store my boards in a full sized van. If you have trouble finding one, let me know. |
Sorry, but those things are total pot metal. Will shatter with the good strike of a hammer. I should know as I lost one that way. (Don't ask). On the other hand, not every clown willing to steal our stuff knows that, so they do work as a meaningful deterrent. _________________ Support Your Sport. Join US Windsurfing!
www.USWindsurfing.org |
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mark
Joined: 10 Apr 2000 Posts: 181
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Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 4:56 pm Post subject: |
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The threads should be 8mm with a 1.25mm pitch. Mc Master sells short eyebolts in both 304ss and 316ss. 316 is slightly more corrosion resistant.
Part number for the 316ss is 3130T11 cost is $5.46. You can view them on line at mcmaster.com.
A pair with a cable (or a Kryptonite bike lock) running through both would be very difficult to unscrew. |
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eghoffman
Joined: 14 May 1998 Posts: 89
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Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 4:34 pm Post subject: |
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Try Dock's Locks:
http://dockslocks.com/
Your SUP probably has a leash plug that you can attach it to or you can use the cleat for the fin box. |
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norcom
Joined: 16 Jun 2008 Posts: 137
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Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 6:28 pm Post subject: |
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The steel cable can be cut with a pair of $2 harbor freight cutters in less than 30 seconds. I've always wondered how easy it would be to cut the cable and tested it on one of my old bike locks. It was a sad moment. |
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