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where to put the color on a custom board

 
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inf2003



Joined: 15 Jan 2009
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 5:48 pm    Post subject: where to put the color on a custom board Reply with quote

I am building a custom board and I am familiar enough with the process of glassing and vaccum bagging. Im just not sure what is the best way to add the color on the top of the board. I know you can paint the foam prior to glassing. Can you paint the epoxy after glassing and prior to the hot coat or will that cause the hot coat not to stick? Or maybe just paint the board after the hot coat and the anti skid is complete. It seems like the paint would be prone to wearing off that way. Can anyone with board building experience give me some advice? Thanks in advance
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whitevan01



Joined: 29 Jun 2007
Posts: 510

PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

under the non skid (I built a board back in the late 80's)
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noshuzbluz



Joined: 18 May 2000
Posts: 779

PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would ask Brian at Open Ocean or Gary at Cascade in the Gorge. They've both done it once or twice themselves and could probably steer you in the right direction.
Good Luck!

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swchandler



Joined: 08 Nov 1993
Posts: 6022

PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Given the fact that epoxy is subject to sun damage, paint of some kind must be applied to cover it. The visual design can accomplished using paint(s), or as applied graphics (as often done at Cobra). Additionally, Dennis0778 is totally right about painting the board before adding non-skid. Also, if you don't want to mask off where the footstraps will be placed, you will have to remove the non-skid later to get good adherence when applying the pads.
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inf2003



Joined: 15 Jan 2009
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the responses. So after the epoxy is complete. You would paint the board and then add the non skid. What is the best system for nonskid? I have heard epoxy and sprinkling sugar in the wet epoxy. That doesnt seem to make a lot of sense though because the non skid epoxy would not be protected from the UV.
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jingebritsen



Joined: 21 Aug 2002
Posts: 2503

PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

salt is better.

apply the color into the epoxy when one applies the nonskid if one wants the protection of pigment most thoroughly. makes for a monochromatic board though. cobra is using decals quite often now, then applies clear coat epoxy nonskid afterwards.

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tramontana00



Joined: 15 Feb 2010
Posts: 176

PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not just use Redek? Available from Big Winds.
http://www.bigwinds.com/wind/category/20/product/329

Hot coat first, than paint, than nonskid last. Two component urethane paint is the way to go. Two component epoxy paints are good too.

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rich1



Joined: 10 Apr 2000
Posts: 156

PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really it depends on your tools, the amount of work you want to do, and skills . I've used many methods over the years, and am just about to try the rice paper graphics method on my next board.

The short answer is to paint the areas not to be non skid first, let the paint get to tack free then mask and paint the area that will be non skid, then immediately sprinkle A LOT of either salt or sugar (I like the extra fine "fast dissolving" sugar myself because I sail bare foot) Take an old pot and drill a bunch of small holes in the bottom. then you have a mega shaker that will apply your non skid medium quickly and evenly. You need to apply enough of the sugar or salt so that you really can't see the paint beneath it. When the paint is cured, you can blow it off with air or wash it off with a hose. I've heard that acrylic dust works really well, but I can't find a local supplier and I find the sugar works well.

If you can spray, a base coat/clear does a really nice job (automotive paints) It's my favourite method but it's expensive, and a fair amount of work. Same as above, but all the colour is done first, then clear coat is sprayed over it in two coats (gloss area first, non slip second)

One part PU marine paints work well, and there are a few that have been made to do a pretty good job with foam rollers.

Also there are a couple of epoxies that are formulated to be UV resistant, so you can use that as a clear coat if you want to do paint on foam before you do your lay up, but your shaping has to be impeccable to use that method. If you do want to go "naked" you can also just use rip stop nylon for the peel ply on the non skid area. I sailed a board for an entire season this way and it held up very well.

BTW if you are new to board building, I highly recommend you go to the Nelson Factory site and watch a pro do the entire process.

http://www.youtube.com/NelsonFactory#p/u/0/ILiZtg45mjk

Oh, and one final bit that can't be stressed enough, paint will not hide small flaws, it will highlight them. Surface prep is the most important part of a paint job.


Good luck.

Chris
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isobars



Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 14605

PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The last time I had a board painted to my specs, I had them put the artistic design on the side people would actually see: the bottom. On the water, no one but me sees the top side, and on shore I almost never let the business side -- the bottom -- touch the ground. Thus the rest of the world sees only the underside of the board the vast majority of the time. I suggest putting the best artistic effort there, concentrating on important features like traction and hull protection on top.

Mike \m/
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