myiW Current Conditions and Forecasts Community Forums Buy and Sell Services
 
Hi guest · myAccount · Log in
 SearchSearch   ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   RegisterRegister 
Paint and Non-Skid Application

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    iWindsurf Community Forum Index -> Windsurfing Discussion
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
fibersnap



Joined: 02 May 2010
Posts: 55

PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 12:12 am    Post subject: Paint and Non-Skid Application Reply with quote

My board has a repair in the area between front and rear straps - right where you place your foot when jibing. Unfortunately it has become very slippery.

I painted the area with rust-oleum flat protective enamel and now it's drying over night. I have a can of rust-oleum "anti-slip aerosol". I test sprayed a small piece of wood just to see the result, and the resulting granules of nonskid seem very small. Is this the right product to use? I recall some discussion a while back of people using nonskid sold for truck beds. I checked at pep boys, but they didn't have anything like that, so I bought the rust-oleum product from OSH. I'll see how the test spray area dries over night.

I assume I'll want to sand the painted area before applying the spray nonskid?

Alternatively, I'll just put a big padz cushion there in case all this doesn't work...
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
coboardhead



Joined: 26 Oct 2009
Posts: 3926

PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've used "Re Deck" a couple times with varying success.

Product is sold at a lot of windsurfing shops but is pricey $30. I did two boards with one bottle last time. The finish did not last as long as I hoped and deck on one of the boards got slippery again. The other board did better. It is clear, so it goes right over decals etc and looks great. It is EASY to do.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
dllee



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 4880
Location: East Bay

PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some people use acrylic brushon and acrylic dust. Some use lexan dust from sanding lexan with 60 grit. Some use polyurethane foam from surfboards (sanded dust with 80 grit). Some use normal salt and acrylic spray paint.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
rlemmens



Joined: 09 Feb 2008
Posts: 206

PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 2:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i really have no idea if this would work and it could be a terrible idea, but how about that stuff people use to texture walls.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
thombiz



Joined: 25 Jun 2007
Posts: 786
Location: Corpus Christi

PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been reading this and thought I should add some key information. One of the best non-skids is acrylic deck dust broadcast on clear UV Epoxy. First, the acrylic Non-Skid Deck Dust is available from Fiberglass Hawaii and runs about $14 for a 1 lb. container. I've used medium grit and fine grit. The fine grit is equivalent to the non-skid most boards come with. The medium grit is pretty coarse, too coarse for most peoples likings.
As for UV Epoxy Resin, use the 2:1 Clear Surf Epoxy Resin also from Fiberglass Hawaii. A quart kit costs about $41.85. Mix and Prep the resin following the instructions precisely. Mask the area to receive non-skid and use a foam roller, West System Epoxy's foam rollers (available at most marine stores) work well, and apply two thin coats to the surface to be non-skidded. Immediately after the 2nd coat, broadcast the non-skid onto the wet epoxy. I use a salt shaker to broadcast the non-skid.

You should have enough non-skid and resin to do several boards. Now, some of the do's and don't. Don't try to mix the non-skid into the resin then roll it on. The resin will just coat each grain of non-skid, making it slippery. Don't try to substitute regular epoxy for the Clear Surf Epoxy. Regular epoxy will quickly yellow and turn brown with sun exposure and your board will look like a 8' turd. Don't wait too long to broadcast the non-skid because the epoxy will harden and the non-skid will just lay on top. Don't worry about putting on too much non-skid. Excess will rinse off after the epoxy hardens. Do make sure the surface to be non-skidded is very clean and free of contaminates. Personally, I wouldn't try to put the epoxy over oil based paints. The bond just won't be very durable. Do pick a day when temps are not above 85 degrees, and the weather is dry. Do make sure there is no moisture on the surface to be non-skidded. It must be completely dry.

OK, so now the alternative methods.........I have successfully used clear linear 2-part urethane paint as a substitute for the Clear Surf Epoxy. I have also successfully use WHITE Awlgrip marine paint in lieu of the Clear Surf Epoxy to make WHITE non-skid. I have also use white marine urethane paint broadcasting sugar on it instead of the acrylic dust to make non-skid. The sugar is rinsed off after the paint hardens leaving an aggressive non-skid.

Finally, there is one other method I have not tried. I understand that if you go to NAPA auto parts, they can provide you with aerosol cans of tough urethane clearcoat auto paint and you can use this clearcoat auto paint in place of the Clear Surf Epoxy. Spray 3 coats of the urethane clearcoat on then broadcast the non-skid immediately.

I'm sure there are even more possibilities, but these have worked well for me.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
rich1



Joined: 10 Apr 2000
Posts: 156

PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 10:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice post Thombiz,

I'm a proponent of sugar over what ever clear coat (or colour) you prefer. I've built many boards over many years, and I've settled on the fast dissolving, or ultra fine sugar rather than table sugar. It's cheap and it works very well. I've taken an old cooking pot, drilled a bunch of holes in it and just shaken over the fresh clear coat. It does wear smooth over the years, but as I've never owned a board I didn't build myself, I can't offer a comparison to the acrylic version.

Again, the key is use lots, it'll wash off easily.

Chris
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
cgoudie1



Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Posts: 2366
Location: Killer Sturgeon Cove

PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have used automotive clearcoat polyurethane spray on paint and white
urethane spray on paint followed (rapidly) by a liberal sprinkling of
salt or sugar (and maybe another spray of the paint.)
Any combination thereof works well, but my preference
is white spray paint and salt. Once dry, I lightly sand with some medium
grit paper to expose the salt/sugar and then rinse the deck
liberally to "melt" out the salt/sugar. This gives you a very nice
looking deck, that's very rough, and lasts at least a season.

-Craig

p.s. I've also used acrylic dust, which works great and needs no
sanding/rinsing, but I've always got salt (or sugar) around, and
acrylic dust is not typically a household item.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    iWindsurf Community Forum Index -> Windsurfing Discussion All times are GMT - 5 Hours
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You can attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum

myiW | Weather | Community | Membership | Support | Log in
like us on facebook
© Copyright 1999-2007 WeatherFlow, Inc Contact Us Ad Marketplace

Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group