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Is my board still Watertight?
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 5467
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mamero wrote:
U2U2U2 wrote:
Pm me your email address , I have issues typing a long reply then lose it on this forum


PM sent. Thanks U2U2U2.


Try again nothing there .

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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 5467
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sent email may have went to spam or junk
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mamero



Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 380
Location: Vancouver, Canada

PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2018 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What do you define as a normal amount of flex in the laminate vs spongy?

I've removed the paint and sanded down the area beside the cracked area. If I push hard with two thumbs on and around that small bare area there is a slight (and I mean SLIGHT) amount of flex. Is this normal? Could this be because the area has been thinned from sanding and has a hole right beside; not as structurally solid as when it's filled and one complete piece? How much natural give is acceptable in that bare glassed area and the area surrounding the hole before it's considered spongy?

I went to Fiber-Tek today. I sucked it up and bought the West Systems 105 Resin with 207 Clear hardener (a life-time supply for me!), Glass Bubbles (for mixing with the resin and use for leveling the hole in the laminate), 4 oz E-Glass, 6 oz E-Glass, and 5.6 oz Carbon fiber. This should give me all the materials I need to repair and restore the board structurally (apart for the anti-skid beads which I still have not sourced locally.

Now I'm off to buy primer and color matched automotive enamel aerosol paint for the cosmetic side. I have the Pantone color codes and I'm bringing the board so the paint shop can scan it directly.

I hope to start the repair tonight. Credible feedback on the definition of "spongy" and normal is appreciated.

mamero wrote:
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 5467
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2018 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The feel sounds correct to me. As nothing wrong and weakened so very slightly by sanding.

Is it all dry now ?

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mamero



Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 380
Location: Vancouver, Canada

PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2018 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

U2U2U2 wrote:
The feel sounds correct to me. As nothing wrong and weakened so very slightly by sanding.

Is it all dry now ?


Thanks U2U2U2.

I used a shop vac to suck the board out for a couple minutes. That was a few days ago. It's been air drying in the house with the vent removed since then. The area around the hole looks and feels dry. It's hard to tell if there is any moisture deeper in the board or not. The above photo is the original photo when it was still wet.
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 5467
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2018 4:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could tape a sandwich baggie cut to fit, or similar clear around the area,
It should be in the sun. If any moisture appears on the inside of the baggie ,its still wet.

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mamero



Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 380
Location: Vancouver, Canada

PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2018 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

U2U2U2 wrote:
You could tape a sandwich baggie cut to fit, or similar clear around the area,
It should be in the sun. If any moisture appears on the inside of the baggie ,its still wet.


The board has been in the direct afternoon sun for the last hour with clear packing tape sealed over the area and the vent closed. No condensation to report. Looks to be dry.
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mamero



Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 380
Location: Vancouver, Canada

PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2018 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hole filled with epoxy resin mixed with glass bubbles.


Hole sanded back. Sanding revealed another small soft spot. Soft spot removed. Not big enough to specifically fill. The resin from the layers should take care of that area.


Layered up with 2 layers. Bottom is 5.6 oz carbon. Top 6 oz e-glass. Now we wait for it to cure.
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 5467
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2018 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In this photo you are patching the hole/soft area.

I would have gone further with materials to overlap sound area

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grantmac017



Joined: 04 Aug 2016
Posts: 946

PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2018 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

U2U2U2 wrote:
In this photo you are patching the hole/soft area.

I would have gone further with materials to overlap sound area


+1, get this patch sanded to shape then go about 1" beyond with a layer of 4oz.
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