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thombiz
Joined: 25 Jun 2007 Posts: 799 Location: Corpus Christi
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Posted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 12:49 pm Post subject: Non-Skid |
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I get asked several times a year about non-skid and how I do mine, so I am sharing that info because there are fewer and fewer shops doing board work, and this may help someone willing to take on the task. Enjoy:
I make my non-skid by using "Fine" acrylic dust purchased from Fiberglass Hawaii in Ventura and non-yellowing urethane paint purchased off Ebay.
Here is the hookup for the Fine acrylic dust. 1 lb. should be enough for several boards.
https://shop.fiberglasshawaii.com/shop/resin-fillers-gel-coat/fillers/flns4060flb-lb-non-skid-4060-fine
Here is the hookup for the clear urethane "matte" finish. This is a premium quality non-yellowing clear urethane:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quart-Low-Gloss-Flat-Matte-Semi-Gloss-Satin-Urethane-Clear-Clearcoat-Paint-Kit-/282497036909?var=581652367793&hash=item41c622b26d:m:mNNhpnil97m5uKWCEcGuyVA
Be sure to select the "matte" finish.
I sand the area to receive the non-skid with 220 or finer sandpaper, then mask the edges and deck pads. I use a cheap 4" or so foam roller (about 1" in diameter) to spread the urethane. Be sure to mix the urethane in precise proportions indicated on the can instructions. I get the foam rollers at Ace Hardware. I apply the first coat in a medium thickness, starting on one end and working to the other end. I immediately go back and apply a second medium coat. Then immediately go back and quickly apply a third "THIN" coat. Total application time of all 3 coats of clear urethane should be less than 10 minutes. As soon as an area gets the 3rd coat, I have a helper start sprinkling the acrylic dust with a salt shaker. The objective in applying the acrylic dust is to get the dust on the wet paint before the outermost surface starts to harden or dry. First pass with the dust, try to generally get the whole area covered then come back and apply a second coat to eliminate any shiny or blotchy areas where the first application may have not been even. Then repeat for the third coat to fill in any uneven areas. Total application time of the dust should be less than 8 minutes. Once you start sprinkling the acrylic dust, DO NOT go back over the acrylic dust with the foam roller!
Most people prefer the "Fine" dust as it is pretty close to the original OEM non-skid. It is a bit more aggressive than OEM non-skid. If you prefer a lot of grip go to the "medium" dust. The "medium" is pretty rough and can give you "road rash" if you fall on it.
Your mileage may vary.
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dllee
Joined: 03 Jul 2009 Posts: 5329 Location: East Bay
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Posted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 3:03 pm Post subject: |
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I"m too lazy and cheap to do it right, but most of my boards are well over 15 year's old, so need nonskid.
Wax works really well. I used to surf.
Grip tape from the hardware store also.
Or I sand some dust from a piece of lexan, then spray poly resin onto the board, sprinkle some lexan dust, and spray a bit more poly resin atop the dust.
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nw30
Joined: 21 Dec 2008 Posts: 6485 Location: The eye of the universe, Cen. Cal. coast
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Posted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 3:35 pm Post subject: |
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I'm lazy also, you can just buy a spray can of non-slip paint. There are many products on the market now days, like AquaTrac, Super Grip, and Monster Paint.
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joethewindsufa
Joined: 10 Oct 2010 Posts: 1190 Location: Montréal
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Posted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 3:36 pm Post subject: |
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for the other lazy ones - like me
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Jim.od3
Joined: 25 Aug 2012 Posts: 90
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Posted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 6:45 pm Post subject: |
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Re-Dek works great.
The spray can stuff is not rough enough for my taste. Not very effective as non-skid for a windsurfer IMHO. Plus the nozzle on mine got plugged after one use.
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swchandler
Joined: 08 Nov 1993 Posts: 10588
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Posted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 12:28 am Post subject: |
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Thanks Bob for offering the real deal. I appreciate your expertise, but I wonder whether others here see the light.
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gregnw44
Joined: 23 Jul 2008 Posts: 783 Location: Seattle, Wa
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Posted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 1:02 am Post subject: |
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Yes I agree, thanks Bob for sharing the best and proper way to it "right".
But I'm also lazy and I agree with NW 30... Monster Traction Spray is awesome!! It's the easiest. And it works great. You can add more coats to get it as "rough, grippy and sand-like" as you want. And it has lasted much longer then I thought it would.
I guess it's not for everyone (although I can't imagine why) but it does the trick really well.
_________________ Greg
Longboarding since '81
Shortboarding since '84 |
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rollerrider
Joined: 17 May 2003 Posts: 100
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Posted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 8:33 am Post subject: |
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Re-deck works fine for me. Enough for two boards. But follow directions! And I think there is a good you tube video.
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cgoudie1
Joined: 10 Apr 2006 Posts: 2599 Location: Killer Sturgeon Cove
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Posted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 9:48 am Post subject: |
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I do it Thom's way, although I might spray in the urethane.
-Craig
Last edited by cgoudie1 on Fri Jun 09, 2017 12:12 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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J64TWB
Joined: 24 Dec 2013 Posts: 1685
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Posted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 10:19 am Post subject: |
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Can you help me understand the "glue" options? Bob recommends polyurethane. Eva talks about epoxy being better than acrylic clear paint but doesn't mention polyurethane. If I use epoxy with the acrylic dust there are many types, water based, solvent, high solid, low solid, etc. So many darn products. The redeck was useless for me, so I assume spray on products are as well. I like grit as I always wear booties.
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