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cdach2000
Joined: 18 Mar 2010 Posts: 3
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Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 10:31 am Post subject: Drysuit Seal Suggestions |
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I recently picked up a barefoot international drysuit for a really great price and have a few questions. Im hoping to extend my windsurfing season here in NJ. The neck seal needs replacement, and I'm planning on changing myself. When I searched online for a suitable replacement I found that there are many different styles, sizes, and thicknesses available (http://www.g-dive.com/DIVE-PRODUCTS.html). They even seem to have one made specifically for watersports. I have a large neck (16") and wonder which one would make a good choice. I won't be doing any crazy maneuvers just hooking in and chilling out. I'm concerned about the tightness around my neck. I also understand a thicker neck seal will last longer but not be as comfortable as a thinner one. Also how are the silicone seals? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Pray for wind,
Chris |
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mat-ty
Joined: 07 Jul 2007 Posts: 7850
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Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 11:14 am Post subject: |
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Most local dive shops will repair seals. Here in Mass a lot of guys use Somerville dive. Most neck seals can be cut. Some even have rings as a guide. A nice pair of sharp scissors and a second set of hands is all it takes. Just make sure to not take off too much. Another idea is to stretch the seal over something, maybe a football or a street cone.
I have changed my own seals before. Very messy and you need to buy some supplies. Better off letting the pros do it IMO. Get some seal saver to prolong life of seals and wax that zipper.
Good luck |
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isobars
Joined: 12 Dec 1999 Posts: 20935
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Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 9:08 am Post subject: |
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Before cutting a seal, I'll stretch them over a kitchen pan/pot overnight. I'll also wear them so both the seal and I adapt; it always feels tight when I first put it on. If neither of those works, THEN I've cut, very carefully, by myself, with no problems.
I've also replaced seals. I just peeled off the old ones, stuffed a cylinder (can, jar, pan) snugly into the "stump", applied the glue, and slid on the new seal. Quick, easy, mess-free (wear disposable gloves to be sure), solid. |
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ron.c
Joined: 30 Oct 2004 Posts: 1460
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Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 5:48 am Post subject: |
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Hello - Stop if here if you've read this from me from before.
For what ever reason, I like the feel of a drysuit with loose arms. My old Bare is ready for hopefully one more season.
The best thing I did was convert the latex neck to a neoprene. Sturgis Marine in Yarmouth MA sent it out (somewhere in Maine I think) for the redo. It came back sized perfectly, even for my scrawny pencil neck. I then have a 1.5'ish neck neoprene neck strap, velcro'd on the ends, to snug it up.
RC |
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boardsurfr
Joined: 23 Aug 2001 Posts: 1266
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Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 8:50 am Post subject: |
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I with Ron on the neoprene neck seals - much more comfortable than latex. The seal does not have to be very tight - the Ianovated wetsuit has a relatively loose neck seal, but water entry is limited. When the water gets really cold (like right now), an Xcel drylock hood works great to eliminate water entry completely. The "double flap neck dam" with one layer below and a second layer on top of the neck seal creates an absolutely tight seal, even in bad crashes. |
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cdach2000
Joined: 18 Mar 2010 Posts: 3
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Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 9:16 am Post subject: |
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Wow thanks for all the great suggestions.
I saw a neoprene neck seal with the cinch strap.
That may be the way to go for me. I don't plan
On being submerged very often. I saw a great video
On the NRS website on replacing seals. Looks almost
Foolproof.
Thanks again.
Chris |
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ron.c
Joined: 30 Oct 2004 Posts: 1460
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Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 6:30 pm Post subject: |
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I change all of my latex seals -
And man it looks like it! What a mess; but then again, it's only our tribe mates who see me.
RC |
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ben.eliyahu.tom
Joined: 31 Dec 2013 Posts: 36
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Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 9:35 pm Post subject: |
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I work for a paddling store and have replaced many latex seals, both neck and wrist and would not recommend doing doing a neck yourself as your first seal job.. a wrist maybe, but necks are tougher to get right.. if you do want to do it on your own though this way works well and is probably the least "intrusive"/ cleanest way of changing a seal..
1)this is probably the most important part, if you get this right the rest is pretty straight forward.. find something that fits the hole perfectly (the harder it is to get in there the better as it will keep the material completely flat during the replacement process). this object should also be as worthless as possible as you will be cutting and gluing on it. it is also better if this object doesn't taper (like a cone for example). The best way I have found is using a piece of 3"-4" micro-cell foam cut into a circle. the smoother the cut the better your final result will be.
2) plug the neck opening with this object and work the suit's material until all the wrinkles are pulled out making sure everything is as tight as possible.
3) trim the old seal so about 1"-1.5" of latex remains all around. this is easily achieved by using a new exacto blade and cutting with the flat part of the blade, not the point.
4) make sure all of the latex is sitting on the neck plug and there is at least 1'' of the plug sticking out above the old trimmed latex.
5) place the new gasket over the plug and the old latex. work the new gasket down carefully making sure that it does not move the old latex. keep going until the area covering the old latex is tight/ wrinkle free and make sure the new gasket is on straight. it is normal that there will be extra material from the new seal hanging below the old latex by the time this step is done, just make sure all the areas in contact with the old latex are tight and wrinkle free, the rest doesn't matter!
6) place a tight fitting rubber band (painter's tape will work as well if tightly wound) over the new gasket along and just above the line where the old latex ends.
7) if all the above is done right you should be able to flip the portion of the new seal resting on the old latex up along the rubber-band line.
8 ) the two surfaces you just exposed will be bonded to each other. lightly sand these surfaces with 120-180 grit sandpaper and then clean the sanded area with a clean cloth and rubbing alcohol.
9) evenly apply a thin layer of stormsure or aquaseal on the 3/4 of the old latex closest to the new seal. a 5g bottle of stormsure will be enough to do one neck or two wrists (http://www.stormsure.com/stormsure/stormsure-flexible-repair-adhesive-3-x-5g-tubes.html)
10) flip the new gasket over gently so to not push away the glue. the excess glue will find its way down to fill the dry 1/4 of the bond due to the pressure. if the right amount of glue was applied then only a small bead will escape evenly out of the bottom.
11) make sure everything is neat and tidy ( accidental glue spills can be cleaned up carefully with rubbing alcohol) set the whole thing up so its resting with the new seal right side up and so any potential runs wont end up on the body of the suit. also make sure the suit will remain at room temperature and wont be moved for 8-10 hours so the glue can dry fully. wrap painter's tape tightly over the bonded areas just to make sure nothing moves as the glue cures (shouldn't have to but just in case the plug's walls are tapered or the plug isn't big enough)
12) after everything is dry, carefully remove the plug and admire your handiwork.run a thin bead of glue along the edge of the old gasket which you cut. if there are any loose bits of old latex this the time to fill the area with glue and press the two pieces together as they dry. make sure it can dry in the same conditions mentioned above.
13) once that is dry do the same thing to the other side of the bonded area where you will likely have lots of excess material, do not try to glue all of this down! most suits have a neoprene cover over this area anyways. you can either leave this extra material or trim it carefully with sharp shears before you run your bead of glue.
14) once its dry you are ready to go, just pay attention to possible leaks in the bond for the first time or two that the suit it used (this is your first gasket job after all!)
hopefully that helps, if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask! good luck if you do it yourself! |
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ben.eliyahu.tom
Joined: 31 Dec 2013 Posts: 36
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Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 9:44 pm Post subject: |
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http://vimeo.com/1861078
that also work well but i find its more complicated and easier to mess up.. |
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cdach2000
Joined: 18 Mar 2010 Posts: 3
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