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rangerider
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 206
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Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 11:25 pm Post subject: |
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Recently broke a tendon Chinook base in the Caribbean which earned me a long swim and a ride in a really nice dinghy. I had just inspected the joint before going out - it broke around the pin. Unfortunately I didn't realize that the safety rope was not installed so I had to de-rig the sail in the water and swim in. Lesson for me is that the safety rope/strap should also be inspected each time. |
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GURGLETROUSERS
Joined: 30 Dec 2009 Posts: 2643
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Posted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 4:50 am Post subject: |
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The strong criss=crossed rope system around the one piece stainless steel topped Chinook tendon U.J. seems to be the safest fail safe. (Provided you check the knots! )
It probably also is safer to use the tendons with the metal bush inserts for the bolt holes, while still dismantling it regularly to check for splits. It would seem they cover all failure modes with the ropes fastened to the solid stainless tops and bottoms, especially the one piece top and pin.
I still can't fathom how anyone is able to check the inner integrity of a rubber joint, when the interior GLUED inner parts are impossible to see? Also, the safety webbing would be of no help if the threaded top pin snapped, as some are prone to do.
Perhaps some clever folk have X ray eyesight! |
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swchandler
Joined: 08 Nov 1993 Posts: 10588
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Posted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 1:23 pm Post subject: |
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When it comes down to it, just look down at a hourglass universal when you're sailing. The amount of deflection between forces is telling. The better tendon-type universals, particularly the Chinook SS one, are a superior product that is more readily serviceable. The extra money for the superior product? Peanuts really, and it's a good example that you get what you pay for. |
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manuel
Joined: 08 Oct 2007 Posts: 1158
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Posted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 11:51 pm Post subject: |
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The Chinook ss has the same weak strap webbing. It's drilled through and doesn't provide much resistance to the huge lever force on a bent joint. |
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GURGLETROUSERS
Joined: 30 Dec 2009 Posts: 2643
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Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 3:22 am Post subject: |
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Manual. My two Chinook Stainless steel tendon UJ's both have looped (4 strands) of stout rope criss-crossed through holes in the top and bottom stainless parts, and tied off with knots.
There is no webbing, and the ropes will hold should the tendon fail. |
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manuel
Joined: 08 Oct 2007 Posts: 1158
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Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 9:06 am Post subject: |
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Must have been looking at a different model, the stainless steel one does use the rope. |
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manuel
Joined: 08 Oct 2007 Posts: 1158
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Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 2:26 pm Post subject: |
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I have been using a streamlined tendon and base. But for some reason the tendon top hole developed a crack each time within a couple of months. It's an old design and the sleeve where the screws go in was only as wide as the tendon itself. The sleeve had a small crack in it which I believe cut the tendon prematurely.
Since then I still use the bottom part of the Streamlined but with the top part of a Chinook whose sleeve goes through the tendon and the metal part as well.
Nothing has happened since then. Easy to change the tendon, easy to pull apart and inspect.
Additionally, in regards to my first post, it looks like the base had corrosion that built up below the base. I used to leave my base on the board and while I would always rinse it, the water wouldn't reach well underneath the base.
I would therefore highly recommend salt water folks to always take the base off of your boards and rinse them well. _________________ *NEW* - Manu's Windsurfing Blog, The STORE! |
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