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modulating jibe radius
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watermonkey



Joined: 16 May 2003
Posts: 66

PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 11:53 am    Post subject: modulating jibe radius Reply with quote

I've got a huge problem modulating my (attempted) jibing radius. My back foot is probably midway between the straps on the inside rail on entry. I'm carrying good speed - when I try to draw out the turn on entry, I generally don't have enough pressure on the inside rail and get chucked to the outside of the turn…way outside. I've also been kicked off the board in wider turns by getting run down by chop. When I'm more aggressive with it (particularly trying to time it in between crests) I bury the tail by the time I get the sail flipped.

I know what it feels like to have the rail properly set and carving. I have done this a few times, generally falling to the inside, but I can't repeat it reliably or recognize which of the 47 variables are correct or not.
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cgoudie1



Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Posts: 1200
Location: Killer Sturgeon Cove

PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 12:21 pm    Post subject: Re: modulating jibe radius Reply with quote

Well, it sounds as though you just don't have enough speed going into
the turn, if you're getting rundown by the chop, you definitely don't have
enough speed going in. Also, longer turns require a more subtle rail
set, than tighter turns, and the rail set should come on slowly as you
enter the turn leaning forward and to the inside of the turn. If you set the rail
hard going into a drawn out jibe with little speed, it'll buck you off, just
like high siding a motorcycle.

Without seeing video of what you are doing, it's all guess work though.

-Craig

watermonkey wrote:
I've got a huge problem modulating my (attempted) jibing radius. My back foot is probably midway between the straps on the inside rail on entry. I'm carrying good speed - when I try to draw out the turn on entry, I generally don't have enough pressure on the inside rail and get chucked to the outside of the turn…way outside. I've also been kicked off the board in wider turns by getting run down by chop. When I'm more aggressive with it (particularly trying to time it in between crests) I bury the tail by the time I get the sail flipped.

I know what it feels like to have the rail properly set and carving. I have done this a few times, generally falling to the inside, but I can't repeat it reliably or recognize which of the 47 variables are correct or not.
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zirtaeb



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 2312

PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bend knees more.
Place back foot on the other (leeward) rail right behind the front strap.
Downward weight on the booms.
Look below the booms.
Flip just before wind pressure slackens on your sail.
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spennie



Joined: 13 Oct 1995
Posts: 791
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA

PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take your front foot out of the strap and set it just behind the mast foot. Now you can modulate your turn all you want to, and will keep more speed since you can adjust board trim mid-jibe. This also eliminates the need for mast base pressure, since your foot will be supplying that. Speed is your friend as well.

Let the ranting begin!

Also, in lighter wind, try holding your sail forward as well as inward.

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Spennie the Wind Junkie
www.WindJunkie.net
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PeconicPuffin



Joined: 07 Jun 2004
Posts: 1204

PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 1:09 pm    Post subject: Re: modulating jibe radius Reply with quote

watermonkey wrote:


I know what it feels like to have the rail properly set and carving. I have done this a few times, generally falling to the inside, but I can't repeat it reliably or recognize which of the 47 variables are correct or not.


It's a common thing to begin with a good carve, but then hang out there way too long ("carve fascination" is the ABK lingo.) What feels good in the first 1/4 of the carving portion will have you losing speed one second later.

Falling to the inside suggests you're leaning inside. A way to keep your weight over the carving rail, regardless of jibe diameter, is to keep your head outside of the turn. The feeling is that your knees and hips are in the turn but your torso is to the outside. In reality a photo would reveal that your body is still banked into the turn, but with your weight above the carving rail. The diamater of turn is them primarly controlled by how forcefully you carve the rail.

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Michael
http://www.peconicpuffin.com
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kmf



Joined: 02 Apr 2001
Posts: 315

PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy "The 12 Step Jibe By Dasher"

Watch it every morning before you go sailing.

Follow the instructions.

Have fun.

KMF
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isobars



Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 13826

PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Everything they said, plus lessons, plus more jibe videos, plus Google Mike Fick's Jibe Tips. The Puffin's ABK-based advice, an important part of my jibe tips for well over a decade now -- curtsey, not bow, to lead with the hips -- are spot on. Spennie's foot-forward suggestion is uniquely his, but makes a great deal of sense; it felt good the few times I tried it.

Mike \m/
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zirtaeb



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 2312

PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 3:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some bigger guys around here use both feet out for jibing. Just before jibing, they take back foot out and forward, then front foot out and centered, THEN start their carves.
Talking pro level planing jibes here.
Risks of crashing is higher, but percentage of completion still pretty good.
Not great for slalom racing, but good enough for rec sailing, wave sailing, bump, and freeride.
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watermonkey



Joined: 16 May 2003
Posts: 66

PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The critical thing I need to avoid is crashing to the outside. I'm landing back-first and slamming my head...the whiplash effect there is getting old even with a helmet. Perhaps I should have phrased this as, "How do I feather in the turning radius without getting launched to the outside of the turn?"

The front-foot-out thing is appealing and makes sense, but I fear having less attachment to the board.

I've been watching the Cribb video relentlessly.
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zirtaeb



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 2312

PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Possibly, you are describing two separate problems.
1. getting high sided, falling outside your radius means you are not committing to your inside carving foot, the one on the inside of your turn. Place more steady weight there, using your lower body, not the chest or shoulders.
2. falling back means you are too far back on your board. Get the backfoot up at the front straps, but not atop them.
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