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Non-skid or traction pad
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LUCARO



Joined: 07 Dec 1997
Posts: 230

PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 10:03 pm    Post subject: Non-skid or traction pad Reply with quote

I have an older board that is losing its grip. This is complicated by the fact that I sail in a very muddy often shallow area (see below).

I tried redeck with salt but it made it more slippery. Although I was too slow in getting the salt on.

I was able to remove the old non-skid and planned to redo it as per board lady instructions (due to mud I was thinking the 3rd most grippy version).

http://www.boardlady.com/nonskid.htm

Anyway I was planning on keeping footstrap pads but am thinking i have gone this far so will probably replace them too. Any suggestions?

And then I got to wondering if i should do the entire board in traction pad like an sup but not sure the effect of the mud on the grippyness of the traction pad. Anyone care to estimate the grippyness of traction pad to regular non-stick?



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isobars



Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 14319

PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SEARCH on NSI Hood River and buy some waffle grip pads. Now ya got traction, comfort, and deck and joint protection, all in one simple product.
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 3078
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

unless the existing pads NEEDED repacement , I would leave them. I used just a surf board pad for other areas for traction, its self adhesive, works ok.


for anti skid on the dek

I use GOOP; ANTI SKID EPOXY WITH GRIT, spray can , easy to use fairly inexpensive, WEST MARINE orders it for me.

1 can does a lot, 1 board +

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cgoudie1



Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Posts: 1278
Location: Killer Sturgeon Cove

PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 10:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My experience with removing pads, is that it is a 1 hour nuisance.
If you're not a pateint type, then don't remove them, but if you are, a
huge waffle pad sounds like a good choice. If you feel the need for
more grip, than what you got with redeck and salt, I have used washed
sand (this is a commercial commodity) you can buy on-line, or probably
locally. It's not patrticularly pretty, but if you lay down a thick spray
coat of epoxy, put down the sand while wet, and spray it in again, you'll
have a finish that will tear the hide off your feet and knees for several
years.

(My prefered method of redecking is to spray in salt with epoxy, and then
flush the salt when the epoxy is dry, which produces a very pretty and
plenty gritty deck for me)

-Craig
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 3078
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 11:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

a small point, once mud gets on the board, esp if its that slimy varity

only water will remove it, IMO the deck surface is not going to make much difference, of course some grip will be better than none, and grit would be better than a pad for this purpose.

the pads around the footstraps obvious different requirements

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isobars



Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 14319

PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

U2U2U2 wrote:
grit would be better than a pad for this purpose

Have you directly compared both approaches? I have, and find that the deep grooves in waffle pads provide much more traction than... with none of the abrasion of ... grit and its much shallower "terrain". There's also no reason to remove the old pads, and one can always add grit to pads.

I've never understood why so many sailors and shapes and factories try so hard to avoid pads. IMO, they are a win/win/win/win/win/win/win/win/win/win/win/win/win/win/win/win -- count 'em -- solution with no downside that I've ever encountered.

Bare foot comfort
Softer ride in chop
(Human) joint protection
Hull protection
No need to remove existing pads
Ease of application
No fumes
Appearance, in many cases, with many colors available
Maybe even cost, unless one keeps resin around anyway
Reduced mess
Less abrasion-induced blood loss = less chumming for sharks
Fewer joint injuries caused by hydroplaning off the deck
Scraps for protecting rails, nose, and tail from impact
Increased board life span = lower repair and replacement costs
Nobody's going to steal it because insecure people think it's geeky
Supports a Hood River business

In the downside column:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQFEY9RIRJA
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adywind



Joined: 08 Jan 2012
Posts: 226

PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The pads look good, why replacing them?!
Also several options for a deck grip solution here:
http://www.northshoreinc.com/store/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=76
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 3078
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

isobars wrote:
U2U2U2 wrote:
grit would be better than a pad for this purpose

Have you directly compared both approaches? I have, and find that the deep grooves in waffle pads provide much more traction than... with none of the abrasion of ... grit and its much shallower "terrain". There's also no reason to remove the old pads, and one can always add grit to pads.



compared.. like some of my foot on a pad and some on the deck, with slimy clay like mud ?

nah

I usually just start to type an answer, and let my fingers move along the keyboard. I try to keep things simple and not say in 8 paragraphs what a sentence would do.

lets not be so presumptions to think you are the only person on the forum to have stood on a windsurf board

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LUCARO



Joined: 07 Dec 1997
Posts: 230

PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool, I will leave the pads under the straps for now.

Not to be too critical of my sailing spot, but the mud is hecka slimy and i suspect that pad + mud = less grip than big grit + mud. But certainly not sure.

The biggest problem seems to be with side to side grip when pushing laterally on the board when trying to plane.

Perhaps i could do strips of pad combined with the spray on grip in between.
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swchandler



Joined: 08 Nov 1993
Posts: 5888

PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Craig,

Just curious about spraying with a two-part 5/1 epoxy. Epoxy seems a bit thick from a viscosity standpoint to work well in a spray gun, and then there's also the matter of its catalytic nature. In the case of the latter, I thinking that you really need to be done with the spraying well before things start to gel. To extend working time, do you use a slow cure hardener instead of the normal hardener? Also, any problem in dealing with the aerated epoxy overspray, and how do you deal with it?

Lastly, I'm assuming that you clean up the spray gun and all its components with acetone. Any useful tips to achieve the best cleaning result?
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