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suggestion for replacing deck pads
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bobt100



Joined: 23 Oct 2001
Posts: 28

PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 10:31 pm    Post subject: suggestion for replacing deck pads Reply with quote

After a couple of years of heavy use, I wore out my deck pads. At first I thought I would just remove the first layer of the dual-density pads. However, I got a bit overzealous in the removal process and removed the pads completely.

I am looking for suggestions for replacement pads. I don't believe Quatro still makes the same pads for this board, but I would like the replacement pads to fit the dimensions of the original pads.

Any suggestions regarding where to buy a replacement set of pads would be welcome. Also, please pass along any suggestions for the best way to install the new pads (contact cement ?).

Thanks.



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swchandler



Joined: 08 Nov 1993
Posts: 5694

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 12:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can always buy sheet material from NSI and cut it out to fit the shape of the old pads. For thicker pads, it would be a good idea to bevel the edges, particularly close to the rail line.

www.northshoreinc.com/

For installation, contact cement is the best adhesive. To ensure good adhesion, you want to clean up the area where the pads will be installed to remove any old foam and adhesive. I would recommend sanding the areas, to include dust removal, as the final prep steps before applying the contact cement. Be sure to apply the cement to both the board and the pads and let each dry before applying the pads to the board.
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isobars



Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 13834

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Search with key words NSI Hood River pad and click the Search for all terms button. You'll find scores of pages on the topic.
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bobt100



Joined: 23 Oct 2001
Posts: 28

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies. Really helpful.
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cgoudie1



Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Posts: 1200
Location: Killer Sturgeon Cove

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agree with Steve here, just get a big pad from NSI and cut to shape. I just
did this in October on an RRD that I had worn the pads right down to the
board. And, you've dealt with the ugly part of scraping the old pads off already.
I actually went into NSI and told them what I wanted, but you
can do it over the phone. I also had them add stickum to the pad while
I was there. Very handy, if it works. We'll see about the longevity of
their double backed stickum this season.

I also recommend you "bevel" the edges, and I actually torch them
around the periphery (after they are installed) with a lighter to
kind of round off any sharp edges.

One other thing I might recommend is a "template" so that you'll know
where to punch holes for the footstrap screws and such. I did that by
laying a a big sheet of paper over the pad area on the board and
rubbing it with graphite.

-Craig

swchandler wrote:
You can always buy sheet material from NSI and cut it out to fit the shape of the old pads. For thicker pads, it would be a good idea to bevel the edges, particularly close to the rail line.

www.northshoreinc.com/

For installation, contact cement is the best adhesive. To ensure good adhesion, you want to clean up the area where the pads will be installed to remove any old foam and adhesive. I would recommend sanding the areas, to include dust removal, as the final prep steps before applying the contact cement. Be sure to apply the cement to both the board and the pads and let each dry before applying the pads to the board.
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bobt100



Joined: 23 Oct 2001
Posts: 28

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cgoudie1 wrote:
Agree with Steve here, just get a big pad from NSI and cut to shape. I just
did this in October on an RRD that I had worn the pads right down to the
board. And, you've dealt with the ugly part of scraping the old pads off already.
I actually went into NSI and told them what I wanted, but you
can do it over the phone. I also had them add stickum to the pad while
I was there. Very handy, if it works. We'll see about the longevity of
their double backed stickum this season.

I also recommend you "bevel" the edges, and I actually torch them
around the periphery (after they are installed) with a lighter to
kind of round off any sharp edges.

One other thing I might recommend is a "template" so that you'll know
where to punch holes for the footstrap screws and such. I did that by
laying a a big sheet of paper over the pad area on the board and
rubbing it with graphite.

-Craig

swchandler wrote:
You can always buy sheet material from NSI and cut it out to fit the shape of the old pads. For thicker pads, it would be a good idea to bevel the edges, particularly close to the rail line.

www.northshoreinc.com/

For installation, contact cement is the best adhesive. To ensure good adhesion, you want to clean up the area where the pads will be installed to remove any old foam and adhesive. I would recommend sanding the areas, to include dust removal, as the final prep steps before applying the contact cement. Be sure to apply the cement to both the board and the pads and let each dry before applying the pads to the board.


Thanks. Like the info on mapping the footstraps.


Last edited by bobt100 on Mon Feb 11, 2013 1:06 pm; edited 1 time in total
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isobars



Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 13834

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those key words and the "Display results as topics" button produced >120 posts in 8-10 threads on this topic. There's a wealth of information there.

Mike \m/
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thombiz



Joined: 25 Jun 2007
Posts: 551
Location: Corpus Christi

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done a number of pad installations over the years so perhaps you'll find some useful info from this post. You can purchase sheet EVA from NSI (I'm a NSI Dealer) and they have a wide selection to choose from. NSI tends to be expensive. I've not had good luck with their self adhesives. They stick well initially, but start to turn loose fairly soon. I personally prefer using Barge Cement such as here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BARGE-CEMENT-RUBBER-GLUE-LEATHER-VINYLE-RUBBER-BOOTS-SHOE-SOLE-REPAIR-1-QUART-/130841014976?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e76bb72c0 this auction is for a quart, but 8 oz should be enough. I like Barge Cement because it bonds extremely well, is waterproof, and it gives you a longer working time than some other contact cements. You can also use: http://www.ebay.com/itm/MCNETT-AQUASEAL-NEOPRENE-REPAIR-SEAL-CEMENT-4OZ-CLEAR-/290839636555?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b764aa4b The key here is it is neoprene cement, which is waterproof.

Besides NSI, you can also find EVA sheet goods here:
http://www.murrays.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MS&Product_Code=41-2991&Category_Code=

Note that there are REMNANTS availble for only $10 11"x40" in black, blue, and grey. That's a bargain if you can get the size to work for your pattern.

Also: http://www.seadek.com/c-5-sheet-material.aspx

And also: http://www.surfsource.net/store/category/traction/ Look about halfway down the page for "Grooved EVA Traction Sheet". Those sheets are 24" x 86" 3/16" thick for $52. There's enough material to do 2 or 3 boards.

Now for screw holes. I prefer to put "short" round headed screws in the screw holes, then lay the sized and patterned EVA sheet over the intended location and rub hard on the EVA and the screw heads will leave an impression in the EVA board side, which locates your screw holes. Then I use a hand held round hole punch to make the holes.

Enjoy!
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isobars



Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 13834

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've used NSI's self-stick adhesive with great long-term results, often right over existing pads including waffle-grip, as long as I install them as described in previous threads. If forced to use contact cement, Barge wins hands down, but the simplicity added and the brain cells saved by self-stick wins every comparison for me.
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hilton08



Joined: 02 Apr 2000
Posts: 383

PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2013 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also like the peel and stick from NSI.
Works great for me as long as the surface is smooth and clean.
If it is cold, I'll use a hair dryer to warm up the adhesive after I peel it but before I stick it. No problems.
I have used clear plastic and a sharpie to trace out a template of the old pad shape and to mark the location of the footstrap insert holes. Just make the new pad a tiny bit bigger so you hide all the evidence of the old pads.
I also recommend an extra jibe pad to keep the deck from going soft between the footstraps. Just trace it out with a pencil and scrape or sand down the non-skid before you stick it.
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