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how to choose a freestyle fin for new board
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 3056
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DanWeiss wrote:
Mike and LeeD are correct. Cutting from the bottom leaves much to be desired.

Short of the very technical and often failed re-foiling as LeeD describes, cutting the fin at the root and re-potting often gives the best results. Epoxy and basic handy skills required, nothing more.


cut the fin at the root and re pot ?

Of the options to shorten the fin, this seems most like to cause havoc, misalignment and strength afterwards being the prime considerations.

To change the length the concept is ok, but not the shape .

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DanWeiss



Joined: 24 Jun 2008
Posts: 1928
Location: Connecticut, USA

PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Repotting a fin is straightforward enough. Setup is a one-time, two-step deal using the actual board for a perfect fit.

Simply cut off the fin so the fin fall's just short (3mm) from the top of the box (closest to the deck) to assure a solid head. Mark two lines that each bisect the middle of the box longitudinally and laterally to the rails, each to be used later to align the fin.

Tape around the box on the board's bottom to catch any epoxy-overflow. Line the box with mold release, paraffin, whatever, taking care to cover the fin bolt holes, and place the cut fin into the mold, bottoming out at the top of the box. Pour very lightly thickened SLOW CURE epoxy into the mold, lift the fin a tad to get the epoxy completely under the fin. Use a spreader to flatten the bottom of the head on each side of the fin.

Getting the fin plumb is not as important as aligning it and in the for and aft location. Use the marks to align through the center of the fin, then check for plum using a carpenter's square, or simply measure from the top of the fin to each rail at the line to be sure the distance is the same. Plumb and square.

Once the epoxy sets, remove fin from the fin box and clean up. Viola, a fin with the same twist and flex characteristics, just shorter.

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DanWeiss



Joined: 24 Jun 2008
Posts: 1928
Location: Connecticut, USA

PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Duplicated post.
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Last edited by DanWeiss on Thu Nov 29, 2012 12:02 pm; edited 1 time in total
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 3056
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

straightforward enough. Would work for anything that has screws to attach

powerbox, tuttle all versions , slot box.

You would still have to place the brass fittings for the screws.

perhaps give it a go on something I just want shorter.

Thanks for the detailed instructions

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DanWeiss



Joined: 24 Jun 2008
Posts: 1928
Location: Connecticut, USA

PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, you do not necessarily need to use the brass threads. Tapping threads directly into the fin head works just fine for most applications. And works perfectly for Tuttle boxes. The assumption is that the re-pot method is used only on cavity-type boxes, not the A-box.

If you wish to use the threaded barrel nuts, all you need to do is drill a hole put it in and drill another hole to access the nut.

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