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Need Board Repair Suggestion
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dllee



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 5328
Location: East Bay

PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, my '99 8'10" Slab slalom has already lost about 1.5 lbs. of waterweight in the last 3 days, sitting on it's side in the courtyard. It's Percy's old board, the one he used to hit 37 something at the Crissy speed trials like 4 years ago.
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swchandler



Joined: 08 Nov 1993
Posts: 10588

PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys, I'm only recommending what Eva, The Boardlady, showed me at her shop some years ago. Also, I never suggested running the pump forever. All you need to do is put some positive pressure into the board. You can always run the pump for a minute or less, than turn the pump off. That's surely not going to delaminate a board.
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swchandler



Joined: 08 Nov 1993
Posts: 10588

PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

LeeD,

I've got a 1999 Mike's Lab 8'!0" Slalom that I bought new from Mike. Definitely it's a board that you want to keep alive. Of all my boards, it's still my favorite.
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techno900



Joined: 28 Mar 2001
Posts: 4161

PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will try the pump for added pressure. Reverse vacuum, which shouldn't be too powerful. As I said no bubbles/air from the crack with sun heating, regardless of the solution on the board. It's very easy to see if there is any disturbance of air escaping through the soapy water.

I doubt that the air pressure from the vacuum will show anything. Clearly, there is/was water under the surface of the skin, exactly where I don't know. I guess to some extent, there is a small amount of delamination so the question still remains - how to fix it.

Grind away a shallow area round the crack, or cut away? I assume that the more I cut/grind (up to a point- no intention of getting down to the foam), the better it will be to fill it back in so the repair is flush with the bottom?

I am no expert at repairs. Just a few rare occasions working with ding stick, Marine Tex, and some glass/epoxy repairs on a very small scale.
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dogalone



Joined: 10 Apr 2000
Posts: 113

PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 5:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

for 12 drops of water you're going to risk blowing up your board??? you've already put plenty of positive pressure on that thing. divincell/airex might hold that much in the area of a razor fine cut.

boardlady herself blew & sucked on a board of mine, which definitely did not fix the problem
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swchandler



Joined: 08 Nov 1993
Posts: 10588

PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No worries techno900 on such small repairs, even if they penetrate to the EPS. The key is removing areas that have been compromised. You can always organize and order your repair to rebuild the area in a suitable way, it just takes time and a little patience. I would strongly recommend studying The Boardlady's website, as she provides the necessary details and photos to give you a really good idea of what's required in doing a proper repair. The good news is that you will be addressing the bottom of the board where it's white, so finishing off the job with a little Krylon Glossy White spray paint won't be that difficult. Just imagine how difficult it would be to finesse a less noticeable repair on the wooden deck of your iSonic.
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 5467
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SC

the Presto is almost fini,

way kool

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techno900



Joined: 28 Mar 2001
Posts: 4161

PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2012 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In case anyone is interested in the rest of the story.

I did look at the boardladies site and there wasn't anything specific that related to my problem.

I ground down along the small cracks and kept grinding until I got to the foam in one hole and just short of the foam in the other. Additional perpendicular crack ran from the original cracks, so I widened the grinding a bit, finishing up with two holes, more or less quarter and half dollar size, with all the visable cracks gone. The material down to the core was damp.

The layers I went through were wood, glass, hard foam, then the core.

After drying it out, I filled in with epoxy and glass, in two sessions. Total of three layers of glass in the deeper hole and two in the other.

With a little sanding, it looks great, but I wonder about the future since these cracks seem to be stress related. The are in the area where the rocker transitions from flat to curved, just where the most pounding occurs while running in small chop.
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 5467
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2012 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would have used some carbon in there as well, but mostly cause I have it on hand. Best not to pile on too much epoxy, sounds like you did it right, cause even slo cure will at times melt the core, trust me on that part.

It may appear again crack from like what you said stress , or in other areas,

and could be just that a stress point from a poor design , or lay up of materials.

sounds a good job to me

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Boardhead1



Joined: 01 Mar 2011
Posts: 58
Location: St Petersburg Fl

PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2012 10:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Techno
Interesting that the crack was only the size of a quarter and 1/2 dollar. Sounds like it turned out okay on the repair, Just a little tip I did a JP deck repair that had wood and carbon, So for the wood part of the repair I want to the hobby shop and got a piece of 1/8" bass wood veneer. I cut out a piece about the shape of the repair and then carefully sand the edge to a nice bevel to match the bevel of the ground out area of the board repair then put one or two layers of 4oz glass under the wood and epoxy that onto the board then sand it flush then a couple layers of 40z S glass or Carbon (same material that was removed) over the top to tie the repair into the rest of the board seal it up. The bass wood is strong and makes for a nice repair.
With such a small area you probably would be fine just sanding thru the top layer without getting too much into the pvc sheet foam, unless the very inner glass was cracked also. Did the foam feel wet or was it mostly the wood and outer glass that was damp? What did the wood look like was it discolored at all? Cheers Michael
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