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va12
Joined: 24 Apr 2010 Posts: 25
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Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 6:46 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you all for the advice & suggestions.
I agree with the comment about the SUP potential of the SL, though I have no experience with a real SUP. I've been in lots of kayaks, though, and I was shocked at how fast I could cruise on the SL. It would keep up with a regular cruising sea kayak.
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PeconicPuffin
Joined: 07 Jun 2004 Posts: 1830
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Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 11:01 am Post subject: |
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isobars wrote: | . A shopper said he had tried most of them out, and considered the best SUP of all to be a Mistral Superlight.
Mike \m/ |
For flatwater gliding it works quite well. Not on waves, though.
_________________ Michael
http://www.peconicpuffin.com |
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windswell
Joined: 20 May 2010 Posts: 211
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Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 1:07 pm Post subject: Superlight - the old version... in waves and otherwise |
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Just to be clear, the Superlight we're talking about here is the old strapless version, NOT the 90's strapped, hard chine version.
About waves, the old Superlight is a great light wind wave catcher, using no greater than a 5.8. But it's a TERRIBLE wave turner. On a big face, you'll ride it all the way to the beach. Be sure to stay as high up on the shoulder as possible and don't ride straight down the wave.
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isobars
Joined: 12 Dec 1999 Posts: 20935
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Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 11:09 am Post subject: |
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I was told decades ago that those plugs are exactly that ... plugs. Rather than wrapping fiberglass and resin around shaped blanks, they pumped foam into shaped hulls constrained by a mold. The foam went into one hole until it exited the other, at which point both holes were permanently plugged.
I fabricated a sliding aircraft aluminum plate which slips into a metal mast track and accepts Chinook two-bolt mast bases. It's nothing more than a plate 1/4" thick, 4-1/2" long, and about 1-5/32" (3 cm) wide, with two holes drilled and tapped to accept two-bolt bases. It was made for a Fanatic track, but the concept is universal and it might fit your Mistrals. You drop the plate into the track, run your two OEM Chinook bolts into it, and sail away.
If those dimensions fit your Mistral track (make one of cardboard or wood or plastic and see if it might fit), mine's yours. If not, you can fabricate one with hacksaw, drill, and tap.
Mike \m/
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va12
Joined: 24 Apr 2010 Posts: 25
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Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 5:05 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you very much for the offer, Mike, it's very generous of you, but I'm afraid I can't take you up on it. The SL does not have a track. It uses a plug of sorts that fits into a hole in the deck.
But something like your plate could easily be screwed to the rim pieces on the plug setup. Luckily, I have a machinist buddy to help with these things.
On using the old boards as a SUP, I'm definitely referring to flat water cruising.
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Lemerick
Joined: 29 May 2010 Posts: 1
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windswell
Joined: 20 May 2010 Posts: 211
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Posted: Sun May 30, 2010 10:08 am Post subject: That one's in good shape |
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Wow, the decal's not even scratched. If the non-skid has worn off the deck, use sticky booties, or put on new non-skid. Everybody sails with the mast foot in the forward hole. Insert at 90 degree angle then turn forward or aft until the pin locks in. Don't bother with the slider metal thingy. The second insert / safety leash was cut off/ removed by EVERY experienced superlight sailor I've ever known.... totally unnecessary and a pain in the ass to push in the slider thingy.
If you can, find a copy of Coach Major Hall's VHS instructional tape, all shot on superlights. VERY helpful about basic and advanced stuff. Stance, etc. I may have a copy someplace I can duplicate for you, if you can't get one from a local buddy or windsurf organization.
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swchandler
Joined: 08 Nov 1993 Posts: 10588
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Posted: Sun May 30, 2010 1:44 pm Post subject: |
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In your photo, the boom was not included in the shot, but I have to think that it's a tie-on type design. While a tie-on design is viable, you definitely need to attach it the proper way to get a sound connection. All tie-on boom attach using generally the same concept, yet the configuration of the front ends vary from brand to brand, so the exact means of accomplishing the task can somewhat different.
Rather than deal with an arguably primitive boom design, I would highly recommend buying a brand new aluminum clamp-on boom design. They are simple to use and adjust, have an outstanding connection to the mast, and they are relatively inexpensive ($150-180) depending on the model. To get a clearer picture of these booms, check out the following website.
http://www.chinooksailing.com/products/index.php?cPath=1
Investment in a new boom may seem expensive given the fact you got the complete Superlight kit for $50, you won't regret making the upgrade in the long run.
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PeconicPuffin
Joined: 07 Jun 2004 Posts: 1830
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Posted: Mon May 31, 2010 9:42 am Post subject: |
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swchandler wrote: | Rather than deal with an arguably primitive boom design, I would highly recommend buying a brand new aluminum clamp-on boom design. |
Without a doubt! The board is outstanding, the mast and sail will suit your purposes for learning, but the boom is far and away not up to snuff with the rest of the gear (or your skills). Frankly a ten year old used aluminum boom (the kind you see at swap meets for $50) would be a tremendous improvement.
-Michael (who still sails his Superlight from time to time.)
_________________ Michael
http://www.peconicpuffin.com |
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windswell
Joined: 20 May 2010 Posts: 211
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Posted: Mon May 31, 2010 10:32 am Post subject: Pr0bably a new saillllllll too |
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that sail looks rolled onto the mast which likely means a really long boom, which havent been made foryears . You can probably pick up a used sail for under $40 that'll fit more modern booms. and be easier to uphaul.
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